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Thread: fuel pump wont prime on tl1000s

  1. #21
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    The 2nd ECM was an eBay unit
    The reason I asked is with an eBay ECM you really don't know the history on it either. Even if the seller says "it came from a running bike" that's no guarantee that it is fully functional. Often, when the fuel driver transistor fails, riders will just jumper the fuel relay (Orange/Wht to Yellow/Red) so that the fuel pump runs whenever the key is on. The system works and it is rideable. Then when the TL get parted out, the ECM is sold on eBay as 'fully functional' because the bike was running, when it actually has a failed fuel output driver (for the Yel/Blu wire).

    It is a possibility, but you won't know until you go through all the tests.


    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    Problem is I have no history of this bike, ..... don't really want to do too much til I have the teething problems sorted.
    Understandable.

    Did you try the TOS test The Ring-In recommended?
    Hotspotuk likes this.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  2. #22
    MotoGP Pit Boss The Ring-In's Avatar
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    If you are going street fighter I have most of the things you need for the conversion

    the gauges are easiest using R gauges

    I have dash panel and converters to suit

    also have polished triples and handlebar setup etc

    Get it running then let me know
    Hotspotuk likes this.


    cheers stu

    Naked TLS 97 , D port heads, TRE, Carrozzaria gold wheels, GSXR750 triples and forks, R1 calipers, Ti Force titanium exhaust system, welded clutch centre, ring-in CCC, polished pressure plate, 999 ducati radiator, custom handlebar fairing, polished ali screen, TLR clocks, Van reservoirs, TLR swingarm, TLR Ohlins rear shock, Norton Commando handlebars on 65mm risers, extra heavy polished billet brass bar-ends, custom shaped seat pad, billet levers and pegs, stainless brake lines, modified airbox, PC11 ,undertail, hugger, clear taillight lens, hidden LED number plate lights, Personal number plate (97TLS),SV coils, ring-in pushrod seal saver.

  3. #23
    Baby Twin
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    seems strange that the kickstand switch doesn't seem to do anything I mean with stand up or down the relay still clicks and engine turns over

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  5. #24
    Baby Twin
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    TOS switch if fine

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    seems strange that the kickstand switch doesn't seem to do anything I mean with stand up or down the relay still clicks and engine turns over
    Follow the wire into the loom and you'll likely find that the switch has been bypassed.
    Hotspotuk likes this.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  7. #26
    Baby Twin
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    Replaced loom and the fuel pump primed, went for a cuppa and tried again and now bloody thing not priming again

  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    Replaced loom and the fuel pump primed, went for a cuppa and tried again and now bloody thing not priming again
    So, you replaced the entire loom?

    It is a good sign that the pump primed - at least once. That confirms the ECM is doing it's job.

    Apparently, there is an intermittent open (or high resistance) in the circuit somewhere (if no error codes are showing up).

    Can you verify that the ECM is being powered up consistently each time? (It's not showing "CHEC" in the LCD window, correct?)
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  9. #28
    Baby Twin
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    I don't have the original clocks to verify any error codes, previous owner fitted aftermarket speedometer

  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    I don't have the original clocks to verify any error codes, previous owner fitted aftermarket speedometer
    Oh yeah, how soon I forget.


    So then, without the ability to see the error codes, you are back to where you were before the loom change. It is acting as though the ECM is prevented from priming the pump due to a lack of sensor feedback.

    Since you say the TOS is fine, the only other sensors that can inhibit the fuel pump command are the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor (IIRC). Check out those two circuits the best you can - all the way back to the ECM. You may even want to remove the rear cam cover to verify that the sensor pin has not fallen out of the cam. It has happened to others.
    Hotspotuk likes this.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  11. #30
    Baby Twin
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    UPDATE!!!!

    Built bike back up again and now no spark or fuel pump so went back to testing everything with multimeter.
    New regulator needed so that got installed and still no spark or fuel pump working. Tested and checked all connections then checked ignition switch with a problem there being no continuity between the White/Orange and Black/white wires so that's now on order and hopefully have it next week
    New HT leads getting fitted and serviced with plugs and oil also

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