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Thread: fuel pump wont prime on tl1000s

  1. #11
    GP Champ
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    Power to the fuel pump comes from the starter relay . If a connection there is dodge the pump will not prime . I have a non standard relay
    so i'm guessing there is a block connection on the original unit .
    I attempted to "clean up " some wiring on my Chinese relay buy fitting a block connector so I could remove the relay easier .
    When clicking the connector together one of the 4 spades missed its opposite position and slid under the plastic .
    Result was no fuel pump prime ,but a click on the ecu .
    This was on a R but I expect it much the same idea on the s except for position of the parts .

  2. #12
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    I am having same problems with fuel pump not priming when I switch on the ignition. .....

    The yellow/blue wire voltage does not drop when I switch on ignition what causes this and is this my fault.

    .....
    The Yel/Blu wire appears to be the problem.

    The ECM controls the Yel/Blu wire. It automatically drives it low for three seconds whenever the key is turned ON (and the kill switch must be in the RUN position). If that is not happening, verify the continuity of the Yel/Blu wire between the fuel relay and the ECM, and then verify that the pin on the ECM is also not switching. The fuel control output transistor has been known to fail on some ECMs.

    On the other hand, the fact that you saw some intermittent operation occur when you were cleaning the connectors suggests that the ECM may be OK. Maybe is it just a wiring problem.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  3. #13
    Baby Twin
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    i replaced the ECM this afternoon and had no difference, tested the y/blue wire yesterday for breaks it was fine.
    Must be a loom fault somewhere

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  5. #14
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    I re-read your first post.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    I am having same problems with fuel pump not priming when I switch on the ignition. Fuel pump will power up when I jump the two wires at the relay but when ignition is switched on to start the engine nothing happens.
    Which two wires are you jumping specifically to make the pump run?


    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    This is a 97 tl1000s it has two relays the same, when I swop the relays about it shows that on the right connector that the relay switches but the left doesn't so basically both relays r switching when tested.
    This sentence does not make sense. First you say the left relay doesn't switch, then you say both relays are switching.

    (edit) After reading it AGAIN, it appears you are saying both relays work in the right-hand loom connector. Please confirm. FYI - these two relays are the side stand switch relay and the fuel pump relay. The wire colors in the loom will tell you which is which.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    The yellow/blue wire voltage does not drop when I switch on ignition what causes this and is this my fault.
    Since you have swapped the ECM and tested the continuity of the Yel/Blu wire, then two possibilities come to mind.
    1) The interlock system is not allowing the ECM to power up.
    2) There is an error code present that is preventing the fuel pump relay from activating.



    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    Bare in mind now when I was cleaning the wiring connection in the loom the main white connecting block at the front of the engine had been looking dirty so sprayed it with wd40 and cleaned connections a bit then placed the connector back in and the pump fired up but it hasn't done it since with the ignition on and I have checked/tested the connections all seem fine with power getting through.
    You'll need to recheck those connections, since the intermittent behavior suggests a problem with the Org/Wht wire or the Org/Blu wire.





    Please check these points again and let us know the status of each wire. Be specific.

    Quote Originally Posted by Six5 View Post
    Check for these voltages at the fuel pump relay connector and you'll know which way to go from there.

    These are the signals or voltages that should be present at the fuel pump relay connector.

    • The Orange/Blue wire should be hot (@ 12 volts) all the time - even when the key is OFF.
    • The Orange/White wire should be hot after the key is turned ON (and the kill switch is ON).
    • When the key is turned ON, the ECM will then also drive the Yellow/Blue wire low (near zero volts). This drives the relay coil and activates the FP relay - thus connecting the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire for about three seconds. This is what powers the fuel pump.
    • You should hear the fuel pump running for those 3 seconds.
    • It should reprime the pump (for 3 seconds) after every time the start button is cycled - if the engine does not start.


    .....
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  6. #15
    Baby Twin
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    When I short the orange/blue to the yellow/red the fuel pump will run

    I swopped the side stand relay and the fuel pump relay to test and both relay are switching when when connected to the side stand plug

    ECM has been swopped to test and makes no difference, continuity of the yellow/blue is fine

    Orange/blue is 12volts
    Orange/White is 12volts with ignition on
    Yellow/blue does not drop voltage when ignition switched on

    The loom has two sections. The main loom and the sub loom at the front for the ignition switches etc. Could this problem be the sub loom at the front? I have done continuity tests on all wire that I can see to be linked to the fuel systems including the sub loom wiring leading to the small fuse box at the front and everything has tested fine so far.

  7. #16
    MotoGP Pit Boss The Ring-In's Avatar
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    if the tip over sensor is locked on then it wont prime either.
    unplug it.
    it will throw an error code but ignore it.
    Hotspotuk likes this.


    cheers stu

    Naked TLS 97 , D port heads, TRE, Carrozzaria gold wheels, GSXR750 triples and forks, R1 calipers, Ti Force titanium exhaust system, welded clutch centre, ring-in CCC, polished pressure plate, 999 ducati radiator, custom handlebar fairing, polished ali screen, TLR clocks, Van reservoirs, TLR swingarm, TLR Ohlins rear shock, Norton Commando handlebars on 65mm risers, extra heavy polished billet brass bar-ends, custom shaped seat pad, billet levers and pegs, stainless brake lines, modified airbox, PC11 ,undertail, hugger, clear taillight lens, hidden LED number plate lights, Personal number plate (97TLS),SV coils, ring-in pushrod seal saver.

  8. #17
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    Thanks for the detailed response.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    .....

    The loom has two sections. The main loom and the sub loom at the front for the ignition switches etc. Could this problem be the sub loom at the front? I have done continuity tests on all wire that I can see to be linked to the fuel systems including the sub loom wiring leading to the small fuse box at the front and everything has tested fine so far.
    The front loom could be involved. It depends upon what is found to be inhibiting the fuel command action of the ECM.


    Also, you haven't noted whether there are any error codes present. Is there an FI indicator in the temp window?

    Regardless, Stu has directed you to the next logical step by checking the TOS.



    Quote Originally Posted by Hotspotuk View Post
    i replaced the ECM this afternoon and had no difference, ....
    Curious, is this second ECM a know good unit? From a running TL?

    Or was it acquired from ebay?
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  9. #18
    Baby Twin
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    I cannot access error codes the Bike doesn't have the original clocks someone has fitted aftermarket one

  10. #19
    Baby Twin
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    The 2nd ECM was an eBay unit

  11. #20
    Baby Twin
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    Problem is I have no history of this bike, I bought it an an insurance auction it was accident damage but damage was only cosmetic. She wasnt starting when I got her due to the injector housings needing cleaned out and then was on the button until about a week ago when the fuel pump started giving me bother. It's gonna be my winter project rebuilding her into a street fighter for the summer but don't really want to do too much til I have the teething problems sorted.

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