Push Rod and Countershaft Seal Replacement (DRAFT)
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Thread: Push Rod and Countershaft Seal Replacement (DRAFT)

  1. #1
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    Push Rod and Countershaft Seal Replacement (DRAFT)

    This is just a draft, so feel free to add input and images.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

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    Silver Subscriber Tuckshop Ted's Avatar
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    I got some more images if you want them Josh?
    Red, the ONLY Colour.....for a 1997 TLS.....
    (1) Sold the old girl now ....... she will be missed...


    (2) UNO frame & swinger with 1040 Bimota (aka TLR) engine running 17x40 teeth, Hydraulic clutch conversion, Billet wndowed clutch cover & cut plate spinner, Dunlop tyres, PC3, TLS bodywork, GSXR750-TT forks with custom Wilbers springs etc, Nissin brake calipers all round, front ones radial, radial Nissin clutch & brake masters, GSXR1000 K5 clocks, PVM lightweight wheels, LED lights all round, Full Yoshi exhaust system, Carbon cans, Yoshi rearsets, K&N air filter, Wilbers custom rear shock, Custom paint job. Skidmarx bellypan, Low profile rear seat hump, MotoX bars, all round (literally) nice guy.

    (3) Bog standard BMW R1150RT.

    (4) Boxes of many parts waiting to be made into 2 more TLS's.

    Workshop in Welham Green near Hatfield in Hertfordshire - TEKMOTIVE - 01707 265000 - www.tekmotive.co.uk.

  3. #3
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    Ten minutes! You couldn't wait 10 more minutes!!
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

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  5. #4
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    ==========PUSH-ROD AND COUNTERSHAFT SEAL REPLACEMENT FOR TL1000R =============

    WHAT YOU'LL NEED
    #34 2003 Suzuki SV1000 RETAINER, DRIVE SHAFT OIL (24751-06G00)
    #35 2003 Suzuki SV1000 SEAL (6X34X10.5) (09283-06008) [Recommend buying two]
    #19 2000 Suzuki TL1000R ROD, CLUTCH PUSH LH (23111-24A01)
    #25A 200 Suzuki TL1000R COVER, DUST (23166-02F20)
    #28 2000 Suzuki TL1000R SEAL, DRIVE SHAFT (09283-38020) [Recommend buying two]
    #44 2000 Suzuki TL1000R O RING (D:2.4,ID:23.7) (09280-24010)

    ---- Rear Tire Stand
    ---- Impact Wrench or Breaker Bar (Drive Sprocket)
    ---- Shop Rags
    ---- Grease (Rear Axle, Push-Rod)
    ---- 2 .5 inch Wood screws (Countershaft Seal removal)
    ---- 1 quart motor oil (coating seals)
    ---- 1 can WD-40 (when is this not needed)
    ---- 4 can Degreaser (For cleaning your nasty ass bike)
    ---- Hammer (for when it's time)
    ---- Allen Wrenches (various sizes)
    ---- Ratchet
    ---- Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 27mm 32mm sockets (pending confirmation of sizes)
    ---- Screw Drivers: Flathead, Phillips
    ---- Boxed End Wrenches
    ---- Other shit...
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  6. #5
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    REMOVE FAIRINGS

    Remove Plastic



    Plastic Removed


    NOTE: More images coming (while I fix my speedometer and tachometer)
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  7. #6
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    REMOVE REAR TIRE

    Place tire on stand. Take this time to clean the rim and chain to make work easier.


    Remove Cotter Pin


    Remove Axle Nut. Uses 27mm socket (confirm) or use wrench from OEM Tool bag (shown)


    Brake Caliper


    Remove Brake Caliper bolts x2 with 12mm socket (confirm)



    Rear Torque Link and Brake Caliper will drop down (may require help)


    Reinsert Break Caliper bolts for organization


    Push Rear Axle through with thumb (note position of Chain Adjusters)


    Pull Rear Axle out


    Rear Caliper Bracket will fall)



    Remove chain from Rear Sprocket(pain in the ass)


    (Rear sprocket Drum may come apart. It's fine)


    Reassemble the axle for organization
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  8. #7
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    EXPOSE DRIVE SPROCKET

    Exposing the Drive Sprocket


    Disconnect Gear Shift Link Rod using 7mm wrench (confirm)


    Camshaft Position Sensor


    Remove Camshaft Position Sensor using Allen Wrench # (Put bolt back in afterwards)


    Remove Clutch Release Cylinder bolts x2


    Inspect Clutch Release Cylinder for dirt and debris (due to missing dust cover)


    Clean Clutch Release Cylinder if dirty


    Install Dust Cover


    Remove Engine Sprocket Cover bolts x3


    Place bolts in Engine Sprocket Cover


    Remove Push Rod
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  9. #8
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    REMOVE DRIVE SPROCKET


    CAUTION: Multiple oil galleries under pressure. Never run bike while Drive Sprocket is removed. All oil will flood out within 20 seconds.



    Drive Sprocket


    Ensure bike is in gear


    Remove Nut Retention Bolt using Allen Wrench #


    Remove Drive Sprocket Nut using 32mm Socket (confirm) and Impact Wrench


    Note how the sprocket and spacer go


    Remove Drive Shaft Retainer bolts x2 using Allen Wrench #


    May need leverage to remove Retainer bolts


    Reposition chain for Drive Shaft Retainer removal


    Remove Drive Shaft Retainer by pulling out and up


    Remove Sprocket Spacer (pull)


    (Pull harder) If it won't budge, use a rubber dishwashing glove for grip. DO NOT USE TOOLS TO PRY IT OUT!


    Countershaft Seal is exposed


    Countershaft Seal alt. view.




    REPLACE PUSH ROD SEAL

    Clean Area around Push-Rod Seal


    Remove Seal. Insert small Allen Wrench into seal orifice (like a hook) and Pliers for easy removal


    Move chain for clear view and access to seal orifice


    Visually inspect seal orifice for dirt, metal burrs, deformities, etc.


    Physically inspect seal orifice for dirt, metal burrs, deformities, etc.


    New Seal - Apply a light coat of motor oil to the inside and outer rim of the seal.


    Place seal flush into seal orifice, but don't push it in


    Use hammer and large socket to gently tap seal evenly into place
    CAUTION: There is nothing to prevent the seal from going too far. Go slow!


    Seal should be flush with the outer orifice lip. If not, seal may not hold.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  10. #9
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    REPLACE COUNTERSHAFT SEAL

    Clean area around Countershaft Seal prior to removal


    Carefully screw in 2 wood screws (no more than 1/4 inch). Use pliers to grab screws seal
    CAUTION: Be very careful here. Behind the seal is the Countershaft Bearing. If the screws go in too far they can damage it, and then you'll need to remove the engine to replace it.


    Apply pressure evenly until seal is removed


    Image of Countershaft Bearing behind Seal


    Clean area thoroughly. Visually & physically inspect area for dirt, metal burrs, etc.


    Use Q-Tips and WD-40 to clean the grooves


    Metal burrs can be seen along the inside edge of the seal orifice. A fine grain sandpaper (200+) can be used to smooth out any defects.


    EXAMPLE: This what happens when screws go too far


    Inspect new seal for damage


    Apply motor oil along the inner side of seal. Coat the entire thing. (New seal should come with inner spring. If not, use spring from old seal)


    Place seal flush into seal orifice. Use hammer and 32mm socket (confirm) to evenly install seal


    CAUTION:There are holes along the countershaft which allow oil under pressure to escape. Do not push seal in so far that it covers these.


    Seal should be flush with the outside of case.


    RESTORE DRIVE SPROCKET
    Clean the Drive Sprocket Spacer


    Remove old O-Ring from Spacer


    Apply grease (or motor oil) to new O-Ring. Insert new O-Ring into Sprocket Spacer


    Move chain to expose workspace


    Insert Drive Sprocket Spacer Carefully, so as to not rub new O-Ring against shaft grooves


    Restore the Drive Shafter Retainer


    Restore Retainer Screws


    Restore Drive Sprocket


    Restore Drive Sprocket Spacer


    Restore Drive Sprocket Nut using 32mm socket (confirm)


    Restore Drive Sprocket Nut Retention Bolt


    Coat Push Rod with grease or motor oil and carefully insert into seal
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  11. #10
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    REASSEMBLE

    Restore Engine Sprocket Cover


    Restore Clutch Release Cylinder. NOTE: May need to depress the cylinder (by hand) before reinserting it


    Restore Camshaft Position Sensor


    Restore Gear Shift Link Rod


    Restore Rear Tire (in reverse order of disassembly)


    Restore Plastics (in reverse order of disassembly)


    NOTE: More images and details to be inserted



    MISC. UNORGANIZED INFORMATION

    SUGGESTION: Take this time to clean the following: rim, inner swing arm, fender, and whatever else your nasty as has been neglecting
    SUGGESTION: Tighten all bolts around clutch cover (08mm)
    SUGGESTION: Check Starter relay for corrosion/Charring. Replace if needed (tutorial in progress)
    SUGGESTION: Perform Charging Mod
    SUGGESTION: Perform Headlight Mod
    SUGGESTION: Check wires for frays. Re-tape as needed.
    SUGGESTION: Check coolant reservoir
    SUGGESTION: Replace Drive Sprocket
    SUGGESTION: Replace Chain (Tutorial in progress)
    SUGGESTION: Replace Tire (Tutorial in progress)


    NOTE: It's ok if you accidently squeeze the clutch lever while Clutch Cylinder is off. Just squeeze the cylinder back into place by hand. Blah blah blah


    # Brake Caliper = 12mm
    # Axle Bolt =
    # Shift Linkage = 08mm
    # Sprocket Cover = 08mm
    # Drive sprocket = 32mm
    # Remove Push-Rod before removing chain from sprocket so not to damage it

    CRAP THAT WILL END UP IN THE GUIDE SOMEWHERE...

    The holes are in the side of the shaft just outside the bearing.
    Only use genuine seals as aftermarket ones are usually slightly smaller diameter and the ones I have looked at are harder.
    The genuine seals seem to bulge back to full size in the gap at the back and this helps them to grip and stay in.
    When you pull a genuine one out you can see the bulged bit and there is usually a bit of tearing of this from pulling the seal out.


    Oil is pumped into the gap behind the seal and then has to go into the drive shaft and into and through the countershaft to lubricate bearing surfaces of gears, and lastly comes out the end of the countershaft and is part of the clutch lubricating system, so if the hole is blocked it not only causes pressure to build behind the seal, it compromises countershaft and clutch lubrication.

    When installing oil seals lubricate the lips of the seal with oil or grease along with the shaft or boss that fits into the oil seal. The oil seal needs a minimal fluid film between its lips and the turning shaft to maintain a good seal and to dissipate heat. An oil seal installed dry may not seal at all, and will most likely fail prematurely. O-rings should be treated in the same manner and not installed dry unless otherwise specified by the service manual.
    If the crankcase vent became clogged, it would allow the case to become pressurized and push oil out around the counter shaft.

    I don't think you understand the lubrication system of the engine
    Oil comes under pressure, from the oil pump to the cavity behind the oil seal (the oil seal and the bearing form a cavity), the under then passes through the notches in the spacer and into the output shaft where it goes along and lubricates the gears.
    Take you sprocket off, and start your engine - the oil pressure will pop out the spacer that the seal runs on



    A countershaft seal isn't too hard to replace, so it seems unlikely your dealer did it wrong twice in a row. I would suspect you are building excessive crankcase pressure and that is causing the seal to fail- this could be caused by a blocked crankcase breather or by a really bad case of blow-by.

    Have your mechanic make certain the crankcase vent is clear, and if it is do a either a leak-down test or at least a compression test. You may be due for a set of rings.


    blocked crankcase vent

    PCV

    Seal in too far blocking oil ports
    Overfilling oil
    Chain too tight causing pressure on countershaft
    Bad spacer O-ring
    Metal burrs on case destroying seal
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

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