Engine Removal - Page 2
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Thread: Engine Removal

  1. #11
    GP Champ TLR67's Avatar
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    Those bolts are a bitch.... I have had a few break doing this.... Best thing is to use wd40 and let soak in overnight then Heat...

  2. #12
    AMA Pit Boss snowblind's Avatar
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    That stud should come out. The head looks to be in fairly good nick. A few taps with a hammer to crack the crud in the threads plus a soak overnight in easing oil. As long as you use a sharp hex bit you should be ok. Might even be worth trying a torx bit in there if the hex slips.

    And one more thing; if you can use an air spanner on it. Its like using an impact driver only a bit kinder.
    Like my TL I'm old, overweight and badly maintained but I can still surprise you by how fast I can move.

  3. #13
    AMA Pit Boss Moyston's Avatar
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    oh i know...so with engine out...was able to flip it up and get a good look at it....it seems someone has had a go at it before, so dont feel confident...

    not a good copy, but they are firmly in there....


    Stop staring at my Tits!!

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  5. #14
    AMA Pit Boss Moyston's Avatar
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    feeling not confident, i went and purchased a good set of hex heads, as the ones i had were a bit on the wear side...I also purchased a can of loctite freeze and release. says it spray on rusted bolt, freezes it down to -43 deg, give few taps , twist etc and take time.....so now feeling confident...i heated it up to expand it, then threw the spray on, froze the bolt, sat down and had a fag...came back, few lite taps, heat up, freeze again, finished off fag....began slow process of turning..hex in and tightened and loosened, kept spraying, finially, could see some movement...stopped. slow process and double checked it wasn't twisting....nope..could see it was lifting out and the exhaust was a bit looser...had a rest, didn't want to push my luck....had another fag then came back to it....tap , spray, tap spray....was getting confident as it was finally coming out and turning....BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!guess fkn what!!!

    yep got the left bolt out so far, and then it just snapped..cracked the fkn shits....tried again with right hand side...didn't even budge.....busted...good news is I got the exhaust off!..

    dont like the look of those valves either..only noticed when put pic on....oh well....ill place it in the corner and save up and buy a good drill and drill them out..cant weld the right one, no head..the left one, yer, but, nup...


    Stop staring at my Tits!!

  6. #15
    AMA Pit Boss Moyston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dadat178 View Post
    You've been a busy boy Dave, nice write up. Does the new motor know it only needs first and second gears
    no it doesn't because your not riding it....


    Stop staring at my Tits!!

  7. #16
    GP Champ TLR67's Avatar
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    Stuff a rag in that head...... Helicoils will work if drilled out....

  8. #17
    AMA Pit Boss Moyston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLR67 View Post
    Stuff a rag in that head...... Helicoils will work if drilled out....
    yep all done and sitting nicely in corner away out of sight....banned, yer will go down the path of helicoil it....


    Stop staring at my Tits!!

  9. #18
    Baby Twin
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    good thread with pictures, just did the same thing, took the motor out but I need another engine, this one previous owner started taking all apart and made it worse than it was.

    Hopefully I dont have same problem with the exhaust bolts!

  10. #19
    MotoGP Pit Boss The Ring-In's Avatar
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    the flush broken one is no prob.

    put a large nut over it and just weld onto what is there.

    I do it all the time.

    and if it snaps off then just get another nut and go again.

    once they start to move then turn them back and forth to loosent the crap on the thread then wind them out.

    never drill until you ABSOLUTELY have to.


    cheers stu

    Naked TLS 97 , D port heads, TRE, Carrozzaria gold wheels, GSXR750 triples and forks, R1 calipers, Ti Force titanium exhaust system, welded clutch centre, ring-in CCC, polished pressure plate, 999 ducati radiator, custom handlebar fairing, polished ali screen, TLR clocks, Van reservoirs, TLR swingarm, TLR Ohlins rear shock, Norton Commando handlebars on 65mm risers, extra heavy polished billet brass bar-ends, custom shaped seat pad, billet levers and pegs, stainless brake lines, modified airbox, PC11 ,undertail, hugger, clear taillight lens, hidden LED number plate lights, Personal number plate (97TLS),SV coils, ring-in pushrod seal saver.

  11. #20
    MotoGP Pit Boss The Ring-In's Avatar
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    fill the hole in the nut to the top with weld.

    the heat soak is what makes the job successful

    let the colour go out of the weld before attempting to undo them.


    cheers stu

    Naked TLS 97 , D port heads, TRE, Carrozzaria gold wheels, GSXR750 triples and forks, R1 calipers, Ti Force titanium exhaust system, welded clutch centre, ring-in CCC, polished pressure plate, 999 ducati radiator, custom handlebar fairing, polished ali screen, TLR clocks, Van reservoirs, TLR swingarm, TLR Ohlins rear shock, Norton Commando handlebars on 65mm risers, extra heavy polished billet brass bar-ends, custom shaped seat pad, billet levers and pegs, stainless brake lines, modified airbox, PC11 ,undertail, hugger, clear taillight lens, hidden LED number plate lights, Personal number plate (97TLS),SV coils, ring-in pushrod seal saver.

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