Hello. I have a problem with my TLS '97
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Thread: Hello. I have a problem with my TLS '97

  1. #1
    Baby Twin
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    Jul 2019
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    Hello. I have a problem with my TLS '97

    Welcome. I am a new member and I am sorry to welcome you with the problem. I apologize for my English, I am using the Google translator. I do not even know if I'm writing in the right place.
    I have TLS '97. After the winter he began to work very strangely. After starting the engine, the motorcycle works well and after a while it weakens and goes out. I can not set the engine idle speed. It shoots terribly at the throttles. I will tell you what I did because I do not know if it can have an impact.
    I made the valves setting,
    oil and filter replacement,
    I improved the damper synchronization,
    new air filter,
    I set TPS,
    I set the air screws for book values,
    I also improved the throttle stop to a value of 0.25mm
    I changed the clutch and suction cable,
    and I made AIR BOX MOD.
    When I made a motorcycle to ride, it turned out that it was not working better. In addition, he lost power. I would add that he had a hard start on a cold engine, but when he started he worked well.
    Looking for the reason I checked the correctness of the timing - it was good.
    I replaced the spark plugs and high voltage wires.
    I checked the wiring harness and the sensors and ignition coils. I have not found anything that could improve the work of the motorcycle.
    I suspect that it may be a puncture, because when I checked the spark on the spark plug and moved it too far away from the engine, holding the handlebar kicked me slightly current. I've run out of ideas. I like this motorcycle, but lately it has ruined a lot of nerves. I am asking for help, maybe we will come together for something that I missed. Or maybe someone of you once met with such a problem.
    I'm joining a movie that shows what it looks like.
    Thank you for your help and best regards, Rafał.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZ1E...ature=youtu.be

  2. #2
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum eRJot!

    Have a look at this linked thread. Specifically post number 24. It may help pursue the problem from a different angle.

    https://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki...worth-s-t.html


    Also make sure that all of the vacuum connections are good.
    eRJot likes this.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  3. #3
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    1crock's Avatar
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    Howdy and Welcome.

    Do what six says, and let us know what you find.
    eRJot likes this.
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  5. #4
    MotoGP Pit Boss The Ring-In's Avatar
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    check the green plug is connected to the air temp sensor in the airbox NOT the grey one. they are interchangeable
    eRJot likes this.


    cheers stu

    Naked TLS 97 , D port heads, TRE, Carrozzaria gold wheels, GSXR750 triples and forks, R1 calipers, Ti Force titanium exhaust system, welded clutch centre, ring-in CCC, polished pressure plate, 999 ducati radiator, custom handlebar fairing, polished ali screen, TLR clocks, Van reservoirs, TLR swingarm, TLR Ohlins rear shock, Norton Commando handlebars on 65mm risers, extra heavy polished billet brass bar-ends, custom shaped seat pad, billet levers and pegs, stainless brake lines, modified airbox, PC11 ,undertail, hugger, clear taillight lens, hidden LED number plate lights, Personal number plate (97TLS),SV coils, ring-in pushrod seal saver.

  6. #5
    AMA Pit Boss snowblind's Avatar
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    I'd also recommend changing the inline fuel filter. If this thing has been sat over the winter you might find things have got a bit gummed up. New filter, fresh fuel (the good stuff eg Shell Nitro), a dose of injector cleaner and see how you get on.

    You don't say where you are based but most places now put bio-ethanol into petrol. That stuff is the spawn of satan and has no place in any self-respecting internal combustion engine. If left to stand for any length of time it absorbs water and you can get a separation layer forming. It creates an unpleasant varnish which coats injectors, gums up your fuel pump, corrodes your fuel tank. That stuff causes more problems than the one it is intended to address.
    wilf and eRJot like this.
    Like my TL I'm old, overweight and badly maintained but I can still surprise you by how fast I can move.

  7. #6
    Baby Twin
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    Welcome. I am glad that you responded to my post so quickly. Thank you all.
    Six, I checked the post # 24.
    The problem is that I'm not sure if I understood the statement reconchris. When I took off the IAP plugin, the turnover jumped, but still did not work well.
    I checked the IAP sensors (I have two), I'm also not sure if I did it right.
    The output voltage was ~ 3.5V and decreased when I was applying negative pressure. At -100 kPa the voltage was ~ 1V. The sensors behaved the same. Should the voltage not increase with the given vacuum?
    This is the situation with the disconnected IAP plug. https://youtu.be/6YRIENCrWq0
    And so when the IAP is connected, but I took off the vacuum line and blinded it.
    https://youtu.be/UFImnkbFwjI
    The speed itself jumps, I do not move the throttle.
    I checked the temperature sensor plug, it's green
    I also checked the fuel filter, it was clean ...
    Thank you, for all the advice. I know that it is difficult to fix something remotely, but together we may be able to remove this failure.
    Regards, Rafał.

  8. #7
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eRJot View Post
    .....
    I checked the IAP sensors (I have two), I'm also not sure if I did it right.
    The output voltage was ~ 3.5V and decreased when I was applying negative pressure. At -100 kPa the voltage was ~ 1V. The sensors behaved the same. Should the voltage not increase with the given vacuum?
    ......Rafał.
    Rafal, I thought the IAP sensor was worth looking at, but it does not appear to be the problem in your case. The voltage results you are seeing agree with the voltage output chart on page 4-38 in the service manual. The sensor output voltage will decrease as the negative pressure (vacuum) becomes greater.

    Have you verified the fuel pressure yet?
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  9. #8
    Baby Twin Tigg1366's Avatar
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    What about the diode next to you knee (six) this caused all kinds of issues for me. It made my speed jump and sometimes not start.. I thought it was the brain. It's the 3 pin diode next to the right knee in the wire loom

  10. #9
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tigg1366 View Post
    What about the diode next to you knee (six) this caused all kinds of issues for me. It made my speed jump and sometimes not start.. I thought it was the brain. It's the 3 pin diode next to the right knee in the wire loom
    Good point Tigg. It is certainly worth checking since eRJot's other efforts are not panning out. That diode did cause a lot of confusion for me, and I still don't understand why it acted the way it did, because I was too lazy to think it through.

    For the benefit of our readers, Tigg1366 is referring to the Side Stand Relay Diode. It is Item "A" in CrashB's color TLS wiring diagrams. In a TLS, it is wrapped into the wire loom behind the frame rail, as Tigg says, about where the rider's right knee would be.

    Tigg, what device did you replace it with? Did you order it online? And how much did it cost? I remember we talked about other dual Schottky diodes that would work, but I don't recall which one you actually used.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  11. #10
    Baby Twin Tigg1366's Avatar
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    Also I found that it's a (n) style diode. 3 pole. That's what a tech guy explained here. Any way it now fail on one side and ohms out on 2 sides. The center(return) is flowing well and I think it read .45 and the other was a open loop now because it is faulty. I will check the link and get back to you. I looked up the part which is the (ssr 7114 diode and did not find anything. A buddy said he could make one.. this is from an earlier message we had. I did buy some and it turned everything around. I have been riding everyday now with no issues. Thank

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