HELP! Bought TL1000R tonight with FI Fault
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Thread: HELP! Bought TL1000R tonight with FI Fault

  1. #1
    Baby Twin
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    HELP! Bought TL1000R tonight with FI Fault

    Hey Guys,

    So, I'll try and keep this brief. I picked up a 2000 TL1000R this evening. This bike has clearly had a life - it's had 13 owners.

    I did the deal over eBay and went to collect tonight.

    When I got there, I literally pulled up on the drive and I could hear a starter motor turning continuously! It was the owner, leaned over the bike, panicking because despite the ignition being OFF, the motor still turned over. The battery was frying, and very hot, and there was smoke coming from under the fairing - from the starter motor I think. It was left hand side in the sprocket area. I disconnect the battery PDQ.

    The guy is an engineer, so he rigged up a large 17Amp Yuasa battery (bike's battery flat for all the turning over). As soon as you linked the battery to the terminals, the bike turned over - even with the ignition OFF. Turned the ignition on, and after a few turns, the bike fired into life. It was popping and banging a lot, but ran OK-ish.

    Turned it off, and repeated the process again, and the bike fired up and popped and banged badly on revving and particularly on overrun (LOUD Viper race system fitted).

    Wired original battery back in and bike would not start, and 'FI' is showing on the LCD, and the FI/Temp/Oil LED is flashing. Tried an hour later and the bike will not start on LCD/LED remains on.

    They guy wanted £1500, I bought it, after haggling, knowing the above for £800!

    The bike came with a receipt and workshop log from June last year that said 'Bike will not start', 'possible fuel issue'. New pump relay was fitted, pump checked for operation and it ran. Also had service and new back tyre. The bike has not been used since, and the seller (who bought this bike from the guy who had it fixed above) paid £2000 for it. He did not pass his test so has sold the bike, and he swears it ran fine last week.

    Incidentally, when the battery is now connected, it doesn't try and turn over by itself.

    So guys, I bought a project TL1000R very cheaply and am happy to be patient. I could probably break it and get more than my money back. But I like a challenge and like 'saving' these things.

    So, ideas on:

    1. The 'turning over by itself' issue? (I've bought a new starter relay from eBay this evening).
    2. The popping and banging (fuel very very old and stale)?
    3. The FI in the LCD and flashing LED

    Simple methodical fix, or break it up/part it out? Tempted to take it to a very competent Suzuki specialist who understands FI. It's got to be electrical ….. If anyone know a really excellent specialist here in the UK, please advise.

    Sorry for the long thread.

    Thanks

    BSR67

  2. #2
    Adrenaline Junky CrashB's Avatar
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    1. Replace the starter relay with a genuine Suzuki one.
    3. Put it into dealer mode (plenty of info on here about how to do that) and see what the error code is.
    2. 3 will probably answer that for you

    If no-one else has explained why the above by morning I'll elaborate then. Too sleepy now lol


    '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - Full colour wiring diagrams - click here for UK TLS - click here for US TLS - click here for UK TLR - click here for US TLR

  3. #3
    Baby Twin
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrashB View Post
    1. Replace the starter relay with a genuine Suzuki one.
    3. Put it into dealer mode (plenty of info on here about how to do that) and see what the error code is.
    2. 3 will probably answer that for you

    If no-one else has explained why the above by morning I'll elaborate then. Too sleepy now lol
    Thanks CrashB. Won't be able to fiddle until tomorrow.

    Need also to charge the battery! It's pretty flat. Forgot to say, the LED flashes with a regular pattern. It's not glowing or anything else.

    Thanks

    BSR67

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  5. #4
    Baby Twin
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrashB View Post
    1. Replace the starter relay with a genuine Suzuki one.
    3. Put it into dealer mode (plenty of info on here about how to do that) and see what the error code is.
    2. 3 will probably answer that for you

    If no-one else has explained why the above by morning I'll elaborate then. Too sleepy now lol
    I've placed the bike in Dealer Mode - and the LCD reads C41 - fuel pump relay.

    I've ordered a new one, a starter relay and fuel pump.

  6. #5
    Adrenaline Junky CrashB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrashB View Post
    1. Replace the starter relay with a genuine Suzuki one.
    3. Put it into dealer mode (plenty of info on here about how to do that) and see what the error code is.
    2. 3 will probably answer that for you

    If no-one else has explained why the above by morning I'll elaborate then. Too sleepy now lol
    As promised, now that I am awake...

    1. Cheap after market (chinese) relays are notorious for causing this issue. They 'weld' themselves open, so continue to try and turn the bike over, even when the key is no-where nearby. Its not just TLs that do this with aftermarket relays, I just fixed a friends Aprilia which had the same issue. You need to get a genuine (expensive) starter relay from Suzuki, or a second hand genuine from Ebay.

    3. As you have said, C41 is the fuel punp relay issue. That explains the cause of number 2 as well. Again, genuine relays is the best way to go, but if you are still having trouble then you need to check that the fuel pump relay is getting the signal on the orange/blue wire. A quick check through the site will give you a run down on how to troubleshoot the various other possible causes.

    Any issues then check back with us


    '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - Full colour wiring diagrams - click here for UK TLS - click here for US TLS - click here for UK TLR - click here for US TLR

  7. #6
    GP Champ rxf610's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrashB View Post
    C41 is the fuel pump relay issue.
    BSR67,

    Firstly listen to Crash and get an OEM STARTER relay. It is toast 100%.

    With electricity just coursing through your system. I am guessing the c41 is the dreaded c41. Meaning the transistor in your ECU is fried. Meaning your FP relay is FINE (do not replace).
    ... listen to Six5 ...

  8. #7
    Baby Twin
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrashB View Post
    As promised, now that I am awake...

    1. Cheap after market (chinese) relays are notorious for causing this issue. They 'weld' themselves open, so continue to try and turn the bike over, even when the key is no-where nearby. Its not just TLs that do this with aftermarket relays, I just fixed a friends Aprilia which had the same issue. You need to get a genuine (expensive) starter relay from Suzuki, or a second hand genuine from Ebay.

    3. As you have said, C41 is the fuel punp relay issue. That explains the cause of number 2 as well. Again, genuine relays is the best way to go, but if you are still having trouble then you need to check that the fuel pump relay is getting the signal on the orange/blue wire. A quick check through the site will give you a run down on how to troubleshoot the various other possible causes.

    Any issues then check back with us
    Thanks CrashB,

    So, I have bought a genuine Suzuki Fuel Pump relay. £21 from Fowlers in Bristol.

    I have bought a genuine Suzuki Starter relay from eBay although it is used. I've also bought a Chinese special which I won't use, but can use for testing.

    I'm going to go to war with a multi meter this evening, so will feedback. Found a very interesting article from 2006 on here - a guy had exactly the same issue with a TLS. Turned out to be a broken/corroded/failed wire on the supply side of the relay (after the fuse).


    Thx

    BSR67

  9. #8
    Baby Twin
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxf610 View Post
    BSR67,

    Firstly listen to Crash and get an OEM STARTER relay. It is toast 100%.

    With electricity just coursing through your system. I am guessing the c41 is the dreaded c41. Meaning the transistor in your ECU is fried. Meaning your FP relay is FINE (do not replace).
    Have bought a pump - going to do the simple things first.

    If the ECU transistor was fried, would it run at all? It did run and then died after about three start ups (despite it not running too cleanly).

    thx

    BSR67

  10. #9
    Adrenaline Junky CrashB's Avatar
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    Use my wiring diagrams and pared wiring diagrams found in the Frequent TL Mods sub-forum when testing with the multimeter


    '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - Full colour wiring diagrams - click here for UK TLS - click here for US TLS - click here for UK TLR - click here for US TLR

  11. #10
    Baby Twin
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    Thanks - will do.

    How often is it ECU fault vs wiring/loom/relay/fuse/pump? Any idea?

    Thx

    BSR67

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