HELP! Bought TL1000R tonight with FI Fault - Page 4
Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 54

Thread: HELP! Bought TL1000R tonight with FI Fault

  1. #31
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    36
    OK, so not fully out of the woods yet.

    Put fresh fuel in - all the popping and banging stopped.

    Put road legal cans on.

    Left the garage and pottered around local roads - all well.

    Then suddenly, at tick over or just above, the bike died and the dreaded FI signal and flashing LED came up. Would crank but not start. So, I turned it off and turned it on again and it started and ran.

    This pattern repeated about 4 times - I was running on the original ECU and figured perhaps it was damaged so changed to the new one. Thought I'd cracked it as I left it running on the stand for about twenty minutes if not more and from tick over (which is too low - circa 800-900 rpm which I cannot seem to adjust) it stalled without any intervention and the LED flashed and FI came up on the LCD. Turned it off and turned it on - FI error, turned it off and turned it on - no error and started and ran.

    Just been out to the garage again and it has started on the button three times without an issue.

    Low fuel pressure or error due to low tick over? The adjuster knob doesn't have any effect.

    And for good measure, there's a dirty great oil leak from the clutch inspection cover gasket! I've ordered the new O ring!

    Any thoughts/suggestions welcome.

    Thanks

    BSR67

  2. #32
    Moderator
    1crock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Dalton, Ohio
    Posts
    8,216
    The idle adjuster not working is probably die to someone turning the cable far enough that it came off at the throttle body. You'll have to do some disassembly to find it, but that was usually the cause.

    If you left it running on the stand for 20 minutes the bike was HOT. Really hot. I'd ride it and see if you fixed it. Of course, I'd ride it close to home until I was sure.
    "The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles."

    Colonel Jeff Cooper, in "The Art of the Rifle"


    Jeff

    TLZone Forums Staff - Resident Stodgy ME


    Questions about the Forums? Click Here

  3. #33
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by 1crock View Post
    The idle adjuster not working is probably die to someone turning the cable far enough that it came off at the throttle body. You'll have to do some disassembly to find it, but that was usually the cause.

    If you left it running on the stand for 20 minutes the bike was HOT. Really hot. I'd ride it and see if you fixed it. Of course, I'd ride it close to home until I was sure.
    Thanks - I'll get under the tank soon and investigate.

    Was thinking the same thing - ride it/get a few miles on it close to home (pushing distance and carrying spares!) and see what gives. It has been standing for 13 months without use. Maybe (hopefully) it will iron out.

    And yes it was hot - 107 degrees when the fans kicked in.

    BSR67

  4. Remove Advertisements
    TLZone.net
    Advertisements
     

  5. #34
    Superbike Twin Mikeblue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    ST Helens, Northwest England
    Posts
    152
    I had a similar problem turned out to be fuel pump wiring altered by a cowboy. Soldered and made good, repaied.
    Blue and white ones are faster

  6. #35
    Moderator
    1crock's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Dalton, Ohio
    Posts
    8,216
    I mention that the bike was so hot only because there had been others who had the TL shut off on them when it got hot. It happened enough that there was a discussion about whether there was a shutoff programmed into the software. Anyhow, it will be interesting to see what happens when you ride it a bit.
    "The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles."

    Colonel Jeff Cooper, in "The Art of the Rifle"


    Jeff

    TLZone Forums Staff - Resident Stodgy ME


    Questions about the Forums? Click Here

  7. #36
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by 1crock View Post
    I mention that the bike was so hot only because there had been others who had the TL shut off on them when it got hot. It happened enough that there was a discussion about whether there was a shutoff programmed into the software. Anyhow, it will be interesting to see what happens when you ride it a bit.
    I'll update after a run. Probably won't be until next weekend as I have to get the bike through roadworthiness test (MOT test herein the UK). It's booked in for next Friday.

    I will have spares with me! And tools!

    I'll be fixing the 'Exxon Valdez' oil leak from the clutch inspection cover on Sunday though (at least I hope the new o-ring fixes it!).

    Think this bike has had a slighty hard life ... !

    Thanks

    BSR67

  8. #37
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    36
    HELP please Guys!

    So, I have been working away on the TLR. It has been starting and running Ok, broadly, except tick over far too low, and it would at tick over occasionally die and the FI LED would light up and it would read FI in the LCD.

    Turning the bike off, and turning the bike on again at the ignition cured it.

    So, I am madly preparing it for its UK roadworthiness test this morning and I started it twice - all good.

    The next thing I know, I turned the ignition on, it read 'CHEC' and then started when I hit the button.

    I then stopped it and it will NOT restart. It cranks, but nothing - doesn't even try to fire. When turning the ignition, the fuel pump primes, but nothing. If i leave the ignition on and flick the kill switch, it primes again when switched to run.

    Dealer mode cays -C00

    I have checked spark - nice blue spark, but the plug is DRY.

    So, 99% certain it is not receiving fuel! I know that the pump was removed last summer by a motorcycle shop that got it running after problems.

    I have replaced the ECM, the fuel pump relay is a brand new genuine Suzuki item, and I've changed the starter relay for genuine Suzuki too.

    Could it be the pump? Low pressure? I have a replacement but everyone says avoid opening the tank - I don't see I have a lot of choice.

    Are there in line filters that might by clogged?

    My only other observation is that the plugs are sooty - but the bike has been started and stopped a lot. Fouled?

    Recommendations please!

    The only other thing to say is that I replaced all the fairings and it don't run after that. Whether I've knocked something? Broken wire?

    Thanks

  9. #38
    Adrenaline Junky CrashB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    South East Wales
    Posts
    2,688
    When you turn the bike off to remove the key it cancels the error code. You need to be able to put it into dealer mode without turning the power off to find what code it throws.

    CHEC usually displays if you have the bike in gear and side stand down, or if the killswitch is in OFF mode. There are other causes too, but those are the most common in my experience.


    '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - Full colour wiring diagrams - click here for UK TLS - click here for US TLS - click here for UK TLR - click here for US TLR

  10. #39
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    36
    Thanks CrashB

    I changed the rear spark plug with a used one (from my old R1). Started up. It cut out - FI LED/FI LCD. Turned it off, turned it on and it started again. Tried two or three times more and it ran each time.

    It's sitting in the back of my van because I have an MOT booked at 3pm (was 12:30). I'm pretty anxious to get it on the road so that I can really test it fully. There's only so much you can do in a cul-de-sac!

    I'm 99% that there's something intermittent going on. It also is trying to kick the starter momentarily when it wants to!

    There are lots of cuts and repairs into the loom. I do know that it used to have a keyless alarm system on it. Do wonder whether this has buggered the loom.

    Bloody rear brake light switch has failed - was working last night. Grrrrrrr. Hoping tester will be lenient - front switch works. I'll let you know how it all goes.

    BSR67

  11. #40
    GP Champ rxf610's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Georgia, US
    Posts
    1,746
    Quote Originally Posted by BSR67 View Post
    There are lots of cuts and repairs into the loom. I do know that it used to have a keyless alarm system on it. Do wonder whether this has buggered the loom.
    For sure it has. You are NOT the first person to have an alarm cause issues....

    But like Crash says, codes are deleted every time you cycle the ignition, so keep the dealer plug bridged at ALL TIMES. Report back if you ever see anything other than c00.
    ... listen to Six5 ...

Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •