Fat ECU -> Yosh box service
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: Fat ECU -> Yosh box service

  1. #1
    One Liter Duc Eater muguvian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    724

    Fat ECU -> Yosh box service

    Does anybody reliable still flash settings for an S or take a deposit to send me their Yosh box?

    After ringing out the harness and megging the sensor, I've found the cause of my too-rich mixture is my IAT is only getting a 2.65V signal. Next troubleshooting step is to replace the ECU but I need to zeroize the new one and then dial it in.

  2. #2
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    St. Paul MN
    Posts
    57
    Make sure your kickstand is up and retest.

  3. #3
    Evil Twin
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    257
    To rich at idle, or too rich across the RPM band?

    Is the clutch switch bypassed?

    I do have a Yosh Box I can loan out for a deposit, but save yourself some money by confirming the source of the problem before you go that route..
    The artist formerly known as Suprachrgd82

  4. Remove Advertisements
    TLZone.net
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Sam
    Sam is offline
    The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator
    Sam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Milton Keynes in England
    Posts
    15,413
    If the clutch switch has been bypassed just by shorting the switch wires then your engine will always run on the rich choke map as the yellow/green ECU indicator wire connection is always earthed telling it it's about to have the engine started or stationary.

    The same wire needs to be earthed to allow the starter solenoid to work. So if you permanently earth those switch wires you need to cut the wire to the ECU so it stays off the rich choke map and resumes to the normal map.
    eviltwintls likes this.

    TLOTM Nov 04, March 06, June 07, July 10, Aug 11, Sept 12 and TLOTY 2007 and 2010

    PM Me for Help & Prices with GSXR/Busa Radial Fork Conversion Kits, 1080cc Big Bore Kits and Welded Clutch Centres

  6. #5
    One Liter Duc Eater muguvian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    724
    No clutch bypass and the TPS / TB sync was done within the last 500 miles. I fixed the cold map issue by moving the coolant temp sensor to the thermostat back in 2003. This is a new-build engine I finished last Nov and it has run spectacularly for its first 2000 miles. It developed an intermittent cold start problem in June and I noticed by jacket reeked of unburnt fuel so I pulled the plugs. Sooted up and powdery so I ran through the IAP, AP, and IAT where I found the temp sensor supply voltage signal was OOT. The thermocouple tested OK per the manual's temp/Ohm schedule and the wiring back to the ECM had minimal resistance with no shorts. To my mind that leaves a faulty ECM, which almost made it to 145000 miles so not too bad.

    Thuddds, I'll take you up soon on the Yosh box so I can make sure I'm starting from zero. Before I risk eBay electronics, anybody got a good -02F41? Probably no time soon but I'll to de-pot my old ECM and see how badly I can muck up flashing replacement chips.

    Ain't she lovely?
    Fat ECU -> Yosh box service-20181202_092917.jpgFat ECU -> Yosh box service-20181202_093541.jpg

  7. #6
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    St. Paul MN
    Posts
    57
    I had the 2.65 voltage on the 5volt wire until I put the stand up. I would check that switch and diodes before swapping the ecu.

  8. #7
    One Liter Duc Eater muguvian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    724
    It has been intermittent, so I'll look there too.

  9. #8
    One Liter Duc Eater muguvian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    724
    I checked the side-stand interlock circuitry and found my 2-wire GPS (bike is a 97 with 97 harness but TLR engine) did not have continuity in neutral. Neutral light works just fine and the side-stand/clutch switch/gear position work as designed (no start with kickstand down and in gear etc.). Pulled the clutch and polished the shift drum contacts on the GPS but no change in continuity at the connector end so either an internal wire break in the pigtail or the sensor itself is dead. I haven't heard of a GPS dying yet, but anybody else? Guess it's time for a TRE since I don't feel like pulling the water pump to change out the GPS.

  10. #9
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    St. Paul MN
    Posts
    57
    I cant see how the neutral light would work without the GPS ground. If the diode was shorted it would stay on.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fat ECU -> Yosh box service-15627245714448516105131701824489_1562724583126.jpg  

  11. #10
    One Liter Duc Eater muguvian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    724
    I agree, which is why I started with the IAT as the enrichment culprit instead of gear selection. But after several cleaning and R&R attempts I could not get continuity between blue/pink and I still have a functioning neutral lamp. I haven’t figured out what combination of failures could cause it, but nonetheless...

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •