Not running 100% - Page 2
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 32

Thread: Not running 100%

  1. #11
    Baby Twin Leadfoot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    22
    Ok so pictures 😄 these wires have been cut and put into this box instead. What’s that about?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Not running 100%-6b4c9925-9104-428e-bb58-3d60fc27ce43_1558711519663.jpeg   Not running 100%-b97cfa1a-c30f-47e4-9633-458d2df4b87f_1558711578117.jpeg  

  2. #12
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Arizona, USA
    Posts
    4,043
    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    ....these wires have been cut and put into this box instead. What’s that about?
    That is an aftermarket turn signal flasher (relay). The DarkGreen and LightBlue wires give it away. Normally, the TS relay is incorporated into the SideStand Relay (SSR), which is the module just above the cut wires. It may be that the TS portion failed, or the new relay may be LED compatible, if LED turn signals have been installed.

    At any rate, LED compatible SSR/TS Relays in the OEM module configuration are readily available on ebay, if you want to restore the wiring to its former state.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  3. #13
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Arizona, USA
    Posts
    4,043
    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    Ok so I’ve done some more fiddling. I adjusted the TPS but I couldn’t get the rpm low enough on the idle stop, if I turn the TPS so the rpm is 1200 the bar is at the top, if I turn the TPS to the centre bar then the revs rise to 2k and I can’t get the idle lower. Static revs clean now but flames out the cans but still doesn’t respond past half throttle on a ride.
    Proper idle and smooth low rpm running are greatly affected by TB and TPS adjustments, in my experience.

    Just so you know, the TPS and Throttle Body Synchronization (TB vacuum balance) are interactive. There are plenty of threads here that discuss this topic in depth. You may need to go back and forth between the two to get the idle where it should be, ~1200 rpm, but in the end, the TBs are balanced and then the TPS is last thing to adjust. If the fuel and ignition system are working, you should be able to attain the 1200 rpm target with the bar in the middle, then it should move to the top position at 1400 rpm.

    There is a youtube video that explains the TB Balance & TPS adjustment process well on a TLS (same method as a TLR, minus the air screws). Someone will round up a link if you can't find it.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  4. Remove Advertisements
    TLZone.net
    Advertisements
     

  5. #14
    Baby Twin Leadfoot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by Six5 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    ....these wires have been cut and put into this box instead. What’s that about?
    That is an aftermarket turn signal flasher (relay). The DarkGreen and LightBlue wires give it away. Normally, the TS relay is incorporated into the SideStand Relay (SSR), which is the module just above the cut wires. It may be that the TS portion failed, or the new relay may be LED compatible, if LED turn signals have been installed. <img src="https://www.tlzone.net/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Surprised" class="inlineimg" />

    At any rate, LED compatible SSR/TS Relays in the OEM module configuration are readily available on ebay, if you want to restore the wiring to its former state.
    I just googled the part no on the original unit and figured it was flasher too.
    I just found both spark plugs were different from each other so that won’t help the running &#x1f604;

  6. #15
    Baby Twin Leadfoot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    22
    Ok so last bit of wiring weirdness to figure out is why this was done? This is the fuel pump relay yeah?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Not running 100%-6d45a93c-dc6e-4492-9af2-c7e092b1c808_1558717541765.jpeg  

  7. #16
    Baby Twin Leadfoot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by Six5 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    Ok so I’ve done some more fiddling. I adjusted the TPS but I couldn’t get the rpm low enough on the idle stop, if I turn the TPS so the rpm is 1200 the bar is at the top, if I turn the TPS to the centre bar then the revs rise to 2k and I can’t get the idle lower. Static revs clean now but flames out the cans but still doesn’t respond past half throttle on a ride.
    Proper idle and smooth low rpm running are greatly affected by TB and TPS adjustments, in my experience.

    Just so you know, the TPS and Throttle Body Synchronization (TB vacuum balance) are interactive. There are plenty of threads here that discuss this topic in depth. You may need to go back and forth between the two to get the idle where it should be, ~1200 rpm, but in the end, the TBs are balanced and then the TPS is last thing to adjust. If the fuel and ignition system are working, you should be able to attain the 1200 rpm target with the bar in the middle, then it should move to the top position at 1400 rpm.

    There is a youtube video that explains the TB Balance & TPS adjustment process well on a TLS (same method as a TLR, minus the air screws). Someone will round up a link if you can't find it.
    Thanks man, I will definitely get this done. I want it running as sweet as possible &#x1f44c;&#x1f3fb; I’ve got a power commander with the bike but not fitted too which I might chuck on.

  8. #17
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Arizona, USA
    Posts
    4,043
    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    Ok so last bit of wiring weirdness to figure out is why this was done? This is the fuel pump relay yeah?
    Yes, that is the fuel pump relay (aftermarket apparently). That jumper wire is there most likely because the control signal from the ECM (yellow/blue wire) is no longer functional. TLR ECMs don't fail too often, but that is the most common failure when they do fail. The jumper connects the switched 12V wire (orange/white), primarily used for the ignition system, to the yellow/red wire that provides power to the FP and injectors. It works, but it is not an ideal arrangement. With the jumper installed, the FP is on whenever the key is on.

    Normally, in the OEM configuration, the Orange/Blue wire is powered all the time (even when key is off). This is the dedicated fuel system power line (with a separate fuse). Then when the key is turned on, the ECM would drive the Yellow/Blue wire low to energize the FP relay. The relay would then make the connection between the Orange/Blue and Yellow/Red wires, powering up the FP and injectors.

    Of course, there may be some other wiring problem that resulted in the band-aid jumper, but you won't know until you test it.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  9. #18
    Baby Twin Leadfoot's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    22
    Yes, that is the fuel pump relay (aftermarket apparently). That jumper wire is there most likely because the control signal from the ECM (yellow/blue wire) is no longer functional. TLR ECMs don't fail too often, but that is the most common failure when they do fail. The jumper connects the switched 12V wire (orange/white), primarily used for the ignition system, to the yellow/red wire that provides power to the FP and injectors. It works, but it is not an ideal arrangement. With the jumper installed, the FP is on whenever the key is on.

    Normally, in the OEM configuration, the Orange/Blue wire is powered all the time (even when key is off). This is the dedicated fuel system power line (with a separate fuse). Then when the key is turned on, the ECM would drive the Yellow/Blue wire low to energize the FP relay. The relay would then make the connection between the Orange/Blue and Yellow/Red wires, powering up the FP and injectors.

    Of course, there may be some other wiring problem that resulted in the band-aid jumper, but you won't know until you test it.[/QUOTE]

    That was my thought, when I cut that wire it came up with c41 and no fuel pump noise. I guess I’m best off cutting the wire that goes to the ecm then? So it doesn’t back feed?

  10. #19
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    1,759
    Quote Originally Posted by Six5 View Post
    ... Proper idle and smooth low rpm running are greatly affected by TB and TPS adjustments, in my experience. ...
    Correction on my previous comment. I was partially crossing the TOS with the TPS as the TOS was fresh on my mind from a current project. Sorry about that. Six5 is correct regarding its affects on high/low RPMs. I didn't correct myself earlier because it wouldn't cause your stuttering at half throttle, and so focusing on it won't solve your primary issue. Not sure if syncing the throttle bodies will either (unless theyre seriously out of whack), but certainly worth trying. I still think the issue lies in a restriction, possibly caused by the bad pump wiring.

    Also note that the R has two additional injectors, which kick in at higher RPMs.




    NOTE: Years ago I did the TPS and TB sync and so no changes in RPMs or throttle response, so that's the experience I'm going off. In short, my experience there is limited.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  11. #20
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Arizona, USA
    Posts
    4,043
    Quote Originally Posted by Leadfoot View Post
    ...

    That was my thought, when I cut that wire it came up with c41 and no fuel pump noise. I guess I’m best off cutting the wire that goes to the ecm then? So it doesn’t back feed?
    If the FP relay is connected properly, there is no danger of "back feed" into the ECM.

    While I have not opened an ECM to determine the root cause failure. My guess, based on similar circuits, is that the output drive transistor for the fuel control line has failed in the ECM. if so, having an external voltage connected to the Yell/Blu wire (somehow) will not damage the circuit any further.

    Still, you may want to confirm that the Yell/Blu wire has continuity back to the ECM. If it is open, that could be the problem.

    There is another potential problem that would cause the OEM circuit to fail. To test it, verify that the Org/Blu wire has 12V all the time - even with a load on it. If not, it may have a poor connection at the large white gang connector, or an open fuel fuse. It can be loaded by connecting jumper from the Org/Blu wire to the Yell/Red wire (disconnect the existing jumper before doing this test). This will cause the fuel pump to run, and the voltage on the Org/Blu wire should remain high (at least 11V) while the pump is running.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •