Resurrection of (Bob)
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  1. #1
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    Resurrection of (Bob)

    Initially I wasn't going to start a thread on this project, given that I just did one, however I'm tackling a few new tasks, and with those new tasks comes new and interesting "discoveries". For example:

    The bike's new owner recently filled the Radiator with fresh green coolant and rode it approximately 60 miles. Now it's brown. Chunks of rust are visible inside the radiator along the fins. Can this be resolved? I wouldn't do it, but perhaps one of you knows a few magic tricks.

    I removed the right exhaust canister and located the missing silencer (when it fell out onto my foot). Ted is the expert in this area. Me, I was like "WTF is that!"

    And then there's the custom wiring (isn't there always). Might need to hit Tony up once or twice.

    Currently, I'm trying to access the coolant pump shaft to (a) assess any rust damage and (b) inspect the impeller shaft seal to confirm that it's the culprit of the weep hole leak. This is a first for me, so I had no idea the oil had to be drained and the entire outer clutch cover removed in order to access it. Pain in the ass really, but it is what it is.

    Not sure if this resurrection will have a happy ending or not (because I'm not financing it), but I remain hopeful

    [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/smilies/banana.gif[/IMG]


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    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  2. #2
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    1crock's Avatar
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    This stuff gets good reviews. I've got enough to do my big 1970 block Nova once the weather allows me to get it out of its winter home.

    Thermocure
    "The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles."

    Colonel Jeff Cooper, in "The Art of the Rifle"


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  3. #3
    Silver Subscriber Tuckshop Ted's Avatar
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    There might be nothing drastically wrong.................

    The colour of the coolant might be due to the PO not having put any anti-freeze in the bike at all or because a "red" coloured anti-freeze may have been used.
    I would give it a dam good flush through first then use a "cleaner" to flush it before filling with a proper solution.
    Taking the cooling system apart and cleaning out any bits and pieces together with that brown gunk can only improve matters though. Reach what you can with a brush and use plenty of fast flowing water on the rest.
    Can you get any of the "flakes of rust" between your fingers? They might be just like a soft "skin" that has come off the gunk and is floating around, unless they feel gritty of course.

    The exhaust can looks to me to be a standard can that has been cut down and put back together, maybe to shorten it, maybe to remove some of the baffling. Hence why the internal part is separate from the main body.
    Not a fan of cut down cans myself. I would dump them and get a set of standard ones ( if they are marked somewhat use a nylon wheel in a drill to create a new brushed finish - you can practice on those old ones ) or some other bolt on alternatives - plenty out there.
    Red, the ONLY Colour.....for a 1997 TLS.....
    (1) Sold the old girl now ....... she will be missed...


    (2) UNO frame & swinger with 1040 Bimota (aka TLR) engine running 17x40 teeth, Hydraulic clutch conversion, Billet wndowed clutch cover & cut plate spinner, Dunlop tyres, PC3, TLS bodywork, GSXR750-TT forks with custom Wilbers springs etc, Nissin brake calipers all round, front ones radial, radial Nissin clutch & brake masters, GSXR1000 K5 clocks, PVM lightweight wheels, LED lights all round, Full Yoshi exhaust system, Carbon cans, Yoshi rearsets, K&N air filter, Wilbers custom rear shock, Custom paint job. Skidmarx bellypan, Low profile rear seat hump, MotoX bars, all round (literally) nice guy.

    (3) Bog standard BMW R1150RT.

    (4) Boxes of many parts waiting to be made into 2 more TLS's.

    Workshop in Welham Green near Hatfield in Hertfordshire - TEKMOTIVE - 01707 265000 - www.tekmotive.co.uk.

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  5. #4
    Baby Twin 100kTLR Crag's Avatar
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    Josh
    Regarding the water pump impeller seal.. As long as the fluid comming out of the 'weep' hole was coolant and NOT oil, no need to take the entire clutch cover/side cover off. 1st see if u can turn the impeller on the shaft before removing the screw/washer. If u can the impeller is worn and should be replaced, about 25 dollars. The actual water pump seal is a ceramic face to face seal with a small spring tension to it. Get a new seal assembly. Sometimes just wiping down the surface works but if ur already their might as well. The impeller has a thrust washer, than the white ceramic seal with a rubber seal around it, then the cover side has a black seal surface spring loaded. This seal is a bitch to remove but can be done carefully with cover on, I've done 3 times. Inspect the shaft as well for any burrs and micro pollish if any found. I actually removed .010" from the end of mine to make impeller tighter on shaft/seal. Also get a new rubber impregnated washer under impeller screw. If waterpump housing seal is still above surface, ok to reuse..

  6. #5
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuckshop Ted View Post
    There might be nothing drastically wrong.................
    The brown mud I drained out last night has since separated and turned to a greenish brown. I've been trying to duplicate this and the closest I've been able to achieve is the owner's choice of coolant mixed with oil. What's got me nervous is just how similar my oil/coolant sample is to what came out of the bike. It's even separating the same. A faulty Water Pump Oil Seal would allow engine oil into the coolant, right? If so, I'm wondering if the continuous flow in a closed system could turn coolant into a mud milkshake?

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    As far as the bits of rust go, I didn't get anything but muddy liquid when I drained it. No metallic flakes in the pan. So either they're too big to pass through the system or they came out when the new owner replaced the coolant. Either way there's definitely some solid chunks in the radiator. Can't really get in there to confirm 100%. I guess all we can do at this point is go with Crock's suggestion, and then flush the hell out of the system with water and coolant per Ted's suggestion. The upper radiator is beat to shit anyway, and the cap is questionable, so not going to waste too much time trying to polish a turd. A TLR deserves better than that.

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    Regarding the exhaust, this piece of baffle that fell out is supposed to be permanently welded in place. And since welding together shitty hacked up exhaust canisters falls outside my scope of 'friendly free labor' I'm not messing with them. Not even going to reattach them, because they'll throw the bike's performance out of wack.

    Resurrection of (Bob)-img_0712.jpg
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  7. #6
    AMA Pit Boss snowblind's Avatar
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    Weird. There's no coolant I know of that is normally yellow. Its usually the green silicate version, the red OAT or occassionally the purple "goes with anything". I've used the prestone stuff though I can't recall right now what colour that is.

    A knackered water pump seal would lead to mayonnaise in the sump so unless you are draining Helman's it's probably not that. I'm wondering if its had a load of rad-weld thrown in to stop a leak.
    Like my TL I'm old, overweight and badly maintained but I can still surprise you by how fast I can move.

  8. #7
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowblind View Post
    ...I'm wondering if its had a load of rad-weld thrown in to stop a leak.
    That's certainly a possibility I hadn't considered. I don't have experience with Stop-Leak personally, but I have seen videos where it turned radiators into bricks of red clay, and also blowing out multiple seals as well. This definitely fits the bill. At This point the only thing I'm 100% certain of is that it's not a byproduct of mixing two coolant types. My primary concern was ruling out any potentially catastrophic possibilities (mainly a blown head gasket), which I'm now confident isn't the case.

    That being said, I have no idea how much time, money, and effort it will eventually take to get all this crap out of the system. Or if it's even possible since it's clumped up and hard as a rock in some spots.

    Much as it pains my OCD to say... I'll let the new owner deal with flushing it out (100 times). And of course, once it's completely flushed then whatever the Stop-Leak was plugging will likely start leaking again, so in the end they'll need to replace the radiator anyway.


    And now some more images for your viewing pleasure.


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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Resurrection of (Bob)-img_0717.jpg  
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  9. #8
    AMA Pit Boss snowblind's Avatar
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    Yech. That's going to need a whole new cooling system. I'm guessing those hoses are as hard as concrete.
    Like my TL I'm old, overweight and badly maintained but I can still surprise you by how fast I can move.

  10. #9
    Adrenaline Junky CrashB's Avatar
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    The thermostat housing can probably be saved by flushing it through with petrol, but the thermostat, pipe and radiators will need replacing. I would probably flush the engine out too using a bovine syringe to jet petrol into the coolant system and keep doing it until it comes out clear.


    '97 TL1000S Streetfighter 'Evil Twin' - Full colour wiring diagrams - click here for UK TLS - click here for US TLS - click here for UK TLR - click here for US TLR

  11. #10
    Silver Subscriber Tuckshop Ted's Avatar
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    dunno about petrol but I have had some surprising results with those rad flushing agents.
    Red, the ONLY Colour.....for a 1997 TLS.....
    (1) Sold the old girl now ....... she will be missed...


    (2) UNO frame & swinger with 1040 Bimota (aka TLR) engine running 17x40 teeth, Hydraulic clutch conversion, Billet wndowed clutch cover & cut plate spinner, Dunlop tyres, PC3, TLS bodywork, GSXR750-TT forks with custom Wilbers springs etc, Nissin brake calipers all round, front ones radial, radial Nissin clutch & brake masters, GSXR1000 K5 clocks, PVM lightweight wheels, LED lights all round, Full Yoshi exhaust system, Carbon cans, Yoshi rearsets, K&N air filter, Wilbers custom rear shock, Custom paint job. Skidmarx bellypan, Low profile rear seat hump, MotoX bars, all round (literally) nice guy.

    (3) Bog standard BMW R1150RT.

    (4) Boxes of many parts waiting to be made into 2 more TLS's.

    Workshop in Welham Green near Hatfield in Hertfordshire - TEKMOTIVE - 01707 265000 - www.tekmotive.co.uk.

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