Removing the front wheel:
Prepare a few loops of zip ties
Hang them off your mirror / indicator stalk etc. They will support the front calipers when they're removed from the bike in a minute.
Slacken off the two brake caliper mounting bolts
Supporting the caliper with your free hand, remove the bolts
Using a zip tie through one of the mounting holes, attach the caliper to your supports.
Repeat for the other side.
Find a suitable piece of wood to protect the sump when you jack it up. This is a sample of plywood from Ainsworth timber.
Pump the jack into contact with the wood. Take the weight off the front tyre, but don't raise it off the ground.
Undo the front axle with a socket until the thread is free of the ally spacer on the other side. You'll know you're there when the axle is just turning rather than unscrewing.
Lift the wheel enough that you can support its weight with your feet
Withdraw the axle taking care to keep the wheel free of the spacer. You don't want that spacer being the only thing holding the wheel up otherwise you could damage it.
Raise the bike enough that you can clear the mudguard with the wheel.
Roll out the front wheel. Don't rest the wheel on the discs. They are very fragile and expensive to replace. Brake discs must be replaced as a pair, and with new pads. If you buy OE replacements that's best part of £250. Be careful!
She's not going anywhere!
Getting the tyres changed
New vs. old. You can see how much more pointy the Pilot Sports are than the BT-021s that are coming off. That rear had plenty of life left in it, but I couldn't afford another set of 021's and I needed to replace both tyres. Pilot Sports were £149 delivered for the pair.
Chat up some totty with a car (I used my girlfriend, but you don't have to do this), and get her to drive you to your local tyre changer (I used Rubber Ranch in Biggin Hill). Cleaning the wheels before you put them in the car is probably a good idea...