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07-03-2009, 03:51 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #16095
Posts: 655
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Albany NY
Sportsbike: 1997 tls
Riding Experience: 4 years
Pictures: 5
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 0 Weeks, 6 Days and 6:08:18 Hours
jmanor
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Electrical issues
So I am almost finish with the 'widow maker' project and go to see if she starts and it wants to sooo bad but no :o( Well the battery is probaly toast but it was on a charger so ok it should start, replaced spark plugs but then something odd happens...I replaced my OEM taillights with 'clear alternatives' intergrated signals and for some reason they are clikcing then when I hit my high beams I can hear the fuel pump reset hmmm. So I go touching wires and it seems ot be something going on in the yellow harness near the headlights. Any clue what that is and is there a wiring diagram for it? This is what is slowing the finishing touches up so hopefully I can resolve this soon and finally get to ride her.. Oh I took the pics of it finished :o)
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07-03-2009, 04:03 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Gold Subscriber
Member #15753
Posts: 1,205
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lansdale, PA
Sportsbike: Black 03 TLR
Riding Experience: 23 yrs 500cc and up
Pictures: 24
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 1 Week, 5 Days and 7:47:43 Hours
TLRChris
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The wiring diagram should be in the manual that's in the File Vault. On the TLR version its all the way in the back under chapter called:Servicing Info.
As for the turn signals, you probably made a short circuit putting it on. Take it back off and see what happens so you're sure you put it on right.
I also have a clear alternatives w/indicators rear light like you have and it uses a common ground, the indicators (yellow wires on mine) you use only the + iirc.
__________________
Past Bikes: '77 Suzuki GS750, '84 Kawasaki GPZ750, '95 Suzuki GSX-R 750 (W), '98 Suzuki GSX-R 750 (SRAD), '98 Suzuki TL1000R blue-white TLR to Limit.
Recent Bike: '03 TL1000R; custom front fairing, double bubble dark smoke screen, airbox mod, BMC airfilter, Galfer brakelines front+rear+clutchline, Ferrodo sintergrip race brakepads, Fork Racetech gold valves and springs, Penske rear shock with LE link. Wish list for this bike: Yoshimura(ti)full exhaust + PC, radial brakes, Brembo radial Brake/Clutch levers, powdercoated frame
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Save your Seat Cowl, get the Safety Cable Here
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07-03-2009, 05:15 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Moderator
Member #249
Posts: 7,693
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Dalton, Ohio
Sportsbike: 1978 GS 1000E, 1965 Honda Dream, Small batch of dirt bikes
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1crock
has no witty saying for
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The yellow connector is known for corroding which causes bad connections which causes heat which causes melted wire insulation and connector. I reckon you may be somewhere along that process right now. Pull it apart and have a look at all the connectors and go from there.
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07-03-2009, 07:31 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #16095
Posts: 655
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Albany NY
Sportsbike: 1997 tls
Riding Experience: 4 years
Pictures: 5
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 0 Weeks, 6 Days and 6:08:18 Hours
jmanor
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yeah it is kind of wierd because when I hit the high beams the fuel pumps resets/primes? Also with your 'clear alternatives' tail light does it have like a yellow light when braking (kind of a design signal) if that makes sense before it goes solid braking?
Ok if it is th eyellow box connection what can be done possibly reconnect the wires or can I buy a connection box.
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07-03-2009, 09:27 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Gold Subscriber
Member #15753
Posts: 1,205
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lansdale, PA
Sportsbike: Black 03 TLR
Riding Experience: 23 yrs 500cc and up
Pictures: 24
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 1 Week, 5 Days and 7:47:43 Hours
TLRChris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmanor
Also with your 'clear alternatives' tail light does it have like a yellow light when braking (kind of a design signal) if that makes sense before it goes solid braking?
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I don't think so, I think it goes straight to bright red. The yellow lights are the indicators so they should only come on when signalling. I can check to make sure I usually don't watch my brakelight, I know from the reflection that it works.
__________________
Past Bikes: '77 Suzuki GS750, '84 Kawasaki GPZ750, '95 Suzuki GSX-R 750 (W), '98 Suzuki GSX-R 750 (SRAD), '98 Suzuki TL1000R blue-white TLR to Limit.
Recent Bike: '03 TL1000R; custom front fairing, double bubble dark smoke screen, airbox mod, BMC airfilter, Galfer brakelines front+rear+clutchline, Ferrodo sintergrip race brakepads, Fork Racetech gold valves and springs, Penske rear shock with LE link. Wish list for this bike: Yoshimura(ti)full exhaust + PC, radial brakes, Brembo radial Brake/Clutch levers, powdercoated frame
Motorcycle Suspension
Suspension Setup
Save your Seat Cowl, get the Safety Cable Here
Read Luke's Story! Buy his parts
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07-03-2009, 10:16 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #14819
Posts: 665
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cali
Sportsbike: 2003 TLR
Riding Experience: 3years
Pictures: 5
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 1 Day and 12:25:22 Hours
Tiller13
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i had a similar problem with the yellow harness where my headlights would not come on but all other instruments and lights were fine and the damn thing was fairly hot...so i simply bought some good electrical connectors and bypassed the harness altogether...no more problems...dont know if you can buy the harness...
__________________
...Elbowz aka Alien#5...
2003 TLR Mods: Full Yosh RS3..K&N..Airbox Lid Removed with Joe V Mod..A&R TRE..Charging Mod..Plus Mod..PCII..EBC Pads..Driven Grips..Xenon HID Bulbs..Dunlop Qualifiers..530 Conversion 16/40..Custom Paint and Decals..
...its not how much horsepower you have but how much you are willing to use...
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07-04-2009, 12:05 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #11449
Posts: 753
Join Date: Oct 2007
Sportsbike: 98 TL1000R 92 katana 600 49cc pocket tlr
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Brat
searching everyyy wich wayyyyayy
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yep yellow harness sucks. that oddly sounds like my issue, starter relay..
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07-09-2009, 08:59 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Gold Subscriber
Member #15753
Posts: 1,205
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lansdale, PA
Sportsbike: Black 03 TLR
Riding Experience: 23 yrs 500cc and up
Pictures: 24
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 1 Week, 5 Days and 7:47:43 Hours
TLRChris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLRChris
I don't think so, I think it goes straight to bright red. The yellow lights are the indicators so they should only come on when signalling. I can check to make sure I usually don't watch my brakelight, I know from the reflection that it works.
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A bit late maybe but I checked the brake lights on my Clear Alternatives rear light and it comes on instantly, no yellow (indicator) lights come on before braking.
__________________
Past Bikes: '77 Suzuki GS750, '84 Kawasaki GPZ750, '95 Suzuki GSX-R 750 (W), '98 Suzuki GSX-R 750 (SRAD), '98 Suzuki TL1000R blue-white TLR to Limit.
Recent Bike: '03 TL1000R; custom front fairing, double bubble dark smoke screen, airbox mod, BMC airfilter, Galfer brakelines front+rear+clutchline, Ferrodo sintergrip race brakepads, Fork Racetech gold valves and springs, Penske rear shock with LE link. Wish list for this bike: Yoshimura(ti)full exhaust + PC, radial brakes, Brembo radial Brake/Clutch levers, powdercoated frame
Motorcycle Suspension
Suspension Setup
Save your Seat Cowl, get the Safety Cable Here
Read Luke's Story! Buy his parts
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07-09-2009, 09:06 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #16095
Posts: 655
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Albany NY
Sportsbike: 1997 tls
Riding Experience: 4 years
Pictures: 5
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 0 Weeks, 6 Days and 6:08:18 Hours
jmanor
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I pulled the harness.. yeah some major issues. a black wire wit a white stripe has some of the insulation stripped and bare wiring showing that got fixed then some other harnesses had the same issues so i fixed those and she good to go except now having issues getting it into nuetral while coming from 2nd gear either it is my sneakers and I am bypassing N going into 1st. It does go into N when the engine starts and shift into 1st then I have to play footsie with the shifter lol... I am going to play around with the cluch cable adjuster and see.
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