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07-02-2009, 05:50 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Baby Twin
Member #15587
Posts: 60
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cape Town South Africa
Sportsbike: TLR 1000
Riding Experience: Long
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 2 Days and 14:45:27 Hours
JohanC
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Clutch Issues
Guys,
These bikes never stop amazing me in the sence that they indeed graze money and time. The latest senario on mine (TLR) is the following. After having to refill the clutch resevoir weekly due to a leaking cap, now it happens that in the mornings when the bike is cold, the clutch engages very low, meaning you cannot "slip" it, whereas it "bites" immediately. The fluid in the holder stays at the correct level after i've fitted a o-ring on top of the holder where the cap skrews tight. Apparently this is where it leaked from.
Once the motor hots up, and reaching normal operating tempreture, the clutch action returns to normal and it engages correctly, like in the past. My question therefore is what might cause this strange hapening. Could it be that there might be air in the system, and if so, why only having a effect when the bike is cold. What role does the actual oil level in the engine have on the way the clutch engages. Can the overfilling of engine oil cause the clutch to drag? Using the bike on a daily basis, and doing long rides over the week-end, i regulary add oil and do not really check the oil level. Mistake 
I might have overfilled it to a cetain extend, or as earlier said, may have air in the hydrolic system. I will nevertheless check the oil level toninght and at the same time bleed the clutch system.
Any advise will be appreciated.
Thanks
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07-02-2009, 06:25 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Banned
Member #3727
Posts: 5,161
Join Date: Oct 2004
Sportsbike:
Riding Experience: 20
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Life Wasted on TLZone: 2 Months, 3 Weeks, 5 Days and 6:04:06 Hours
vandriver
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The reservoir should not leak through the cap. Does it have the stock rubber diaphragm and plastic ring that holds it in place inside of the cap?
You can not just put an o-ring in the cap. The diaphragm needs to be vented to the outside, so it can expand when the fluid volume drops or you will create a vacuum in the system.
The cap, diaphragm and ring all work together to provide a sealed container that is vented from the backside.
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07-02-2009, 07:09 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #16865
Posts: 713
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Sportsbike: 2000 TL1000R
Riding Experience: RVF400, SV650
Pictures: 63
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 6 Days and 19:32:11 Hours
wraith09
-Semper Fidalis et TLR!!!
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Hi Johan
Sound like you have air in the system, standing overnight and cooling down alows the air bubbles to accumulate, forming a larger "air pocket". This pocket can be compressed unlike the fluid, but when you start driving around the fluid heats and motion makes the bubbles disperse, returning your original clutch feel.
Thats my thought anyway!
Just try a bleed!
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07-02-2009, 07:11 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #16865
Posts: 713
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Sportsbike: 2000 TL1000R
Riding Experience: RVF400, SV650
Pictures: 63
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 6 Days and 19:32:11 Hours
wraith09
-Semper Fidalis et TLR!!!
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Another test to try is: when cold, pump the clutch lever for a while, this should disperse the air pocket as well.
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07-02-2009, 07:31 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Silver Subscriber
Member #7105
Posts: 400
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Southport, UK
Sportsbike:
Riding Experience: 11 years
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Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 6 Days and 15:40:09 Hours
d-dan
Knee down, blob down,
plastics down, crank
down....bollocks!
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Is it just me or is the design of the clutch M/C res all wrong? The way it is positioned can make air enter the M/C even when filled to the MAX line due to the mounting angle? (Have a look when you bike is on the side stand) If the res was rotated around 180 degrees then this wouldn't happen.
I've had troubles with my hydro clutch for a year now, the slave cylinder has been rebuilt which has improved things no end. I used 400 grit emery paper to clean up the surface of the cylinder.
__________________
*SOLD* 2003 TL1000R B&W Loads of mods, but who cares when the engine is U/S
1993 GPZ500 Road - 1998 GSXR-600 Track
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07-02-2009, 07:37 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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One Liter Duc Eater
Member #16865
Posts: 713
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Port Elizabeth, South Africa
Sportsbike: 2000 TL1000R
Riding Experience: RVF400, SV650
Pictures: 63
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 6 Days and 19:32:11 Hours
wraith09
-Semper Fidalis et TLR!!!
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Like vandriver said, shouldnt leak with an OK diaphragm and ring.
Oh, and Johan, keep an eye on over filling with oil...keep it between the specified lines, overpressure could leak past valve stem seals etc..
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07-03-2009, 01:05 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Baby Twin
Member #15587
Posts: 60
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cape Town South Africa
Sportsbike: TLR 1000
Riding Experience: Long
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 2 Days and 14:45:27 Hours
JohanC
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Guys,
Thanks for the advise, but i am glad to report that after bleeding the system last night, it is back to normal. As far as the o-ring that seals the cap is concerned, it indeed stopped the cylinder from leaking. I do not understand why the cylinder needs to be vented from outside, it is supposed to be a "closed" system. Should it require ventilation i will drill a hole in the cap and have a tube made up which can "breath". Rather that than to have a leaking cap whenever the bike is on the sidestand.
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07-03-2009, 05:49 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Moderator
Member #249
Posts: 7,690
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Dalton, Ohio
Sportsbike: 1978 GS 1000E, 1965 Honda Dream, Small batch of dirt bikes
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1crock
has no witty saying for
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No, don't drill the cap.
__________________
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Colonel Jeff Cooper, in "The Art of the Rifle"
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07-03-2009, 06:04 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Banned
Member #3727
Posts: 5,161
Join Date: Oct 2004
Sportsbike:
Riding Experience: 20
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Life Wasted on TLZone: 2 Months, 3 Weeks, 5 Days and 6:04:06 Hours
vandriver
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Look at the fiche:
http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...ASTER_CYLINDER
Do you have part # 6 and 7? If you do, inspect for a hole or a crack in the lid or cup.
There is no reason for your bike to leak and every other Suzuki with that cup is fine.
It's only a closed system under the diaphragm. As fluid leaves the cup, the diaphragm is drawn into the cup. If it does not have free air behind it, it can not move, creating a vacuum. Suzuki would not waste money on this system if they could have just used an O-ring.
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07-03-2009, 05:01 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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AMA Pit Boss
Member #2223
Posts: 2,551
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Essex, UK.
Sportsbike: TL1000R 'O3 reg
Riding Experience: plenty
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Life Wasted on TLZone: 3 Days and 1:47:21 Hours
Essex_Andy
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Cable clutch conversion 
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