Forks leaking. Sell the TLR or fix the forks?

[i8marcus]

Check with Speedking for the Busa forks....He's usually got some for sale at a good price. Check the "for sale" section

[SVonhof]

Originally Posted by i8marcus

Check with Speedking for the Busa forks....He's usually got some for sale at a good price. Check the "for sale" section

PM sent. Thanks. Saw it the first time, but didn't act on it until now.

[cyclecamper]

Your shop fucked up the job completely, and/or just didn't take it far enough.

1) If your'e not tightening the axle in the correct sequence, it will destroy seals quickly when it forces the fork into incorrect geometry.
2) If #1 was ever wrong, you need seals and sliders and dust covers etc. If your male lower legs look OK (not worn thru the chrome) it's all easily fixed.
3) Not too hard to do yourself with a few tools, but lots of shops fuck it up IMHO. Forks go to a susension shop or you learn to do it yourself.
4) If its bottoming, chances are REALLY GOOD that they didn't refill the fluid to the correct level. The remaining trapped air creates a very progressive spring, so the fluid level is critical because it sets that volume of trapped air and determines how progressive the anti-bottoming air-spring is. That's how you set it to prevent bottoming.

[SVonhof]

Originally Posted by cyclecamper

Your shop fucked up the job completely, and/or just didn't take it far enough.

1) If your'e not tightening the axle in the correct sequence, it will destroy seals quickly when it forces the fork into incorrect geometry.
2) If #1 was ever wrong, you need seals and sliders and dust covers etc. If your male lower legs look OK (not worn thru the chrome) it's all easily fixed.
3) Not too hard to do yourself with a few tools, but lots of shops fuck it up IMHO. Forks go to a susension shop or you learn to do it yourself.
4) If its bottoming, chances are REALLY GOOD that they didn't refill the fluid to the correct level. The remaining trapped air creates a very progressive spring, so the fluid level is critical because it sets that volume of trapped air and determines how progressive the anti-bottoming air-spring is. That's how you set it to prevent bottoming.

Good information, partially too late as I would have taken it elsewhere the first time! But thanks for the info. I will heed that on this next job, whatever that ends up being. I am taking everything in right now and need to figure out my next move. Good thing is, this is not my sole transportation and I typically only ride a day a week or so.

[The Ring-In]

if they bottomed out its most likely it needs a spring upgrade. check the bus forks will have springs enough to suit your weight.

[the gringo]

when you remove the forks, inspect the stanchons with a magnifying glass for tiny chips in the chrome. what happens is road crud hits the forks and puts tiny chips in the plating, these chips are razor sharp as they flake off and slice through the seal lips as they bounce up and down.
when you find them you can polish them out.....CAREFULLY.
i replaced my seals then 1000miles later they were leaking again. the people that re-vamped my forks told me this is what happens.
so now 4000 miles later.....no leaks.

[The Ring-In]

you can polish them out.....CAREFULLY

I use a small sharpening stone and hold it flat on the surface and rub gently

[TLR-Billbo]

its junk, the bikes worthless now, you should just sell it to me for $100

[wsmc831]

no reason to change forks, you may just be getting another headache. the oem forks work VERY well if they are valved and sprung properly..certainly better than stock forks off some other bike.

[dragonbro]

Hey Scott...........DON'T SELL IT get the forks to a good shop and have them inspected Seals, springs, revalve job will probably run near $350. If you do end up going with Busa forks remember that the front fender mounts are different. You will have to modify the mounts to use the TLR fender