Raptor 1000 Questions and issues.

[Dangerstevie]

I have recently got a 2002 Cagiva Raptor 1000. Its very tidy and is fitted with: Pro-taper MotoX bars, K&N filter, new sprockets and chain recently, its done 27000 miles and has been well serviced.

I started stripping the tail unit off it and noticed a microswitch on the tail unit which looks like it has been used for an old alarm, so i removed it. I then noticed a MAP sensor just sitting there under the seat unit next to the battery, the electrical connector is still on it but no pipe. so i pulled off the petrol tank and had a shufty around and found the old pipe it should have been connected to with a bolt in the end of it blocking it off. So i replaced the bit of pipe and connected it back up to the MAP sensor. The bike was harder to start, ran rough, and would not tick over properly. Throttle response seemed slower and it was generally crap. I removed the pipe and blocked it off and all was well again and it seems to run beautifully (Barring the misfire at 3000 rpm, which seems to be a common problem.)

I think the MAP sensor has been disconnected as a bodge to increase the fueling slightly to richen the mixture after the K&N has been fitted, but why would the bike run like crap with the MAP sensor fitted properly?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers.

[raptorkev]

not sure about the map sensor thing but if its ok as it was if aint broke ye
as for the 3000 misfire its usualy the clutch switch make sure ithe clutch freeplay is adjusted properly
do you have to pull the clutch in to start it
if not someone has taped the wires together
does the misfire go when temp is upto about 82

[Dangerstevie]

I have not checked what temp the misfire goes away at, it always seems to be there and is more noticable around town. It seems to bog slightly when i release the clutch to pull off etc but i have put that down to just getting used to a new bike. I have a new 86deg thermostat on order and i will check the clutch for free play.

Do you know if the std Xrap carbon cans are riveted together or if its just a carbon look sleeve on the ally/stainless can. I have a pair on the way all being well that i intend to gut and repack with a straight through preforated pipe and wadding.

Whats the crack with the PAIRS system on these, why do people remove it? and is there any way i can read fault codes off the ECU?

Thanks

[raptorkev]

ye its just a carbon sleeve i'm afraid the standard cans weigh a ton for a stop fgap till you can get something lighter try drilling holes at the end around the axit tube

the pair valve modstops backfiring on the over run

you can put it in dealer mode by bridging 2 connectors in the diagnostic connector

you can find the answers to all these questions in the tech pages on the raptor chaptor website

[nissn1]

get rid of the pair valve and also save some useless weight , also i beleive although i may be wrong that the pair has to be blocked anyway if you ever have it dynoed which is a good idea no matter what mods you have

[Dangerstevie]

Ok, thats some useful info there guys thanks. I have been through most of the posts on the raptor chapter and cannot find much in the way of basic infor about the systems we are talking about. Especially about the dealer mode.
Where is the diagnostic connector and how do i "work" the dealer mode? When i switch the ign on my speedo displays CHEC. I assume this means i have fault codes stored?

I have a clutch switch on the way from my dads bike breakers and i am ordering an 86 degree stat this coming week. I will be replacing All of the vacuum pipes with nice new black silicone pipe and looking into removing the PAIR valve from the airbox. Also a set of straight through cans are on the cards, but i will be making them myself as i cannot afford much more than 100 for the pair, so some second hand sleeves and standard ends with some straight throught perforated tube and wadding will do quite nicely i think.

Any info you can guve me about the dealer mode will be muchly appreciated, cheers.

[raptorkev]

hi mate the diagnostic plug is the spare plug that lies by the ecu where the 2 plugs plug in lift up the diagnostic plug looking at the end so your looking in at all the holes with the square bit to the top bridge the top 2 on the right this will put it in dealer mode i hope this makes sense let me know

[Dangerstevie]

sorry dude but that made as much sense to me as an asthmatic ant with some heavy shopping doing the 100m dash. Can you run that past me again please. I have a square connector near to the battery with nothing connected to it.

[raptorkev]

Originally Posted by Dangerstevie

sorry dude but that made as much sense to me as an asthmatic ant with some heavy shopping doing the 100m dash. Can you run that past me again please. I have a square connector near to the battery with nothing connected to it.

go onto the raptor chapter web site.
look in GENERAL TECHNICAL.
in section electronic ignition diognostic tool on ebay
see if that does for you

[Dangerstevie]

thankyou very much mate, that makes everything much clearer.
ill be playing with that tomorrow.

Thanks again