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About LinkBackswow. I bridged mine when it failed, i didn't know it could affect the engine's performance. I guess i'll be buying another one...
wow. I bridged mine when it failed, i didn't know it could affect the engine's performance. I guess i'll be buying another one...
2000 Yellow TLR
- Suspension: Speedking K5 Busa forks w/Racetech .95K springs, Bitubo rear shock & carbon fiber steering damper
- Drivetrain: Stealth rear sprocket +2 w/Driven alum nuts, EK MVXZ gold 530 chain, Driven 17t frnt sprocket
- Brakes: Nissin front/rear calipers, radial brake/clutch M/C, Hel Ti brake lines, all Ti Banjos & brake disc bolts
- Controls: Woodcraft rearsets & 2" riser clip-ons w/carbon fiber bars
- Sliders: Lockhart Phillips carbon frame sliders, Vandriver front axle sliders, Driven rear axle sliders
- Engine: Yoshimura full race system w/Titanium cans & Jet-Hot Sterling coated headers, BMC Race air filter, MattTheHat TRE/Yosh box remap +5+5+5@11:00, NGK CR9EIX Iridium plugs, Mobil-1 15w-50
- Accessories: Quick release seat/tank, Gilles Ti axle & swingarm nut, Scorpio alarm, Vandriver: rear brake reservoir, sprocket cover, clear clutch cover w/slider, triple tree, Zero Gravity light smoke DB screen
- 20,500mi - 120 RWHP & 69 ft/lbs of torque
my opinion is it doesnt make any difference, not trying to stall this thread but only telling you my own findings, my TLS is virtually identical mechanically to my brothers TLS, both have K&N, PC2, aftermarket cans etc, mine has no clutch switch his has it,
short runs, or long, theres no obvious differences we can tell in fuel consumption or performance, even if we swap bikes.. and yes before anyone asks our maps are very similar but with slight differences as his cans are open and mine run modified db killers,
but as this has got the old brain box ticking now I will try his without the clutch switch just to confirm, will let you know
Geffb,
97 TLS, 4pot Nissins/Bendix pads, Braking Rotors, now changed to Armstrong waves & v.happy with result, Ohlins Shock-but now trying an R6 shok seems pretty good, Tuckshops orig revalved forks - but dont tell him..... flat bars, K&N, F00 ecu & PC2 with custom map, K6 radial front master cylinder, Harris rearsets, Arrow carbons, HID,s, Werks easy clutch, big grin - oh & bikes now all black
Your butt-dyno 'perception' is just that - the reality of what is happening is demonstrable and has been.Originally Posted by tek-troll
As SteveTLS quoted from the TLZone thread:
Update Jan 2009 ffaspector a member on TLZone who has done some reverse engineering of the TL ECU and cracked a lot of the mapping confirmed half of what I presumed.
So - two strikes - the neutral Ignition Map and the IAP idle map.
You could conceivably tune out the fueling differences with your PC2 but not the ignition changes.
Suzuki TL1000S..........Suzuki SV650S..........Triumph Daytona
Thanks D,Ecosse.
Now i got it.
Once again, you guys are great, when it comes to make bike tecniques understandable for us"not so nerd'ish" ;-)
can't wait to get that new switch installed.
If you can't wheelie a TL, you suck.
TL 1000 S, 99, Hiflo Filter, ATRE, 1/5th throttle insert, PAIR system removed, 87c thermostat, gearing 17/42.
Guys I did the relay mod on my bike and its all fine,starts fine etc., BUT now my TRE is not working. I have a static TRE with a switch and now when TRE is ON rpm's doesnt drop like before. I disconnect the relay and TRE is working -rpm's drop when TRE is on and raise when clutch is engage..Is that normal? This let me think that the relay work not only when starter buton is depressed but when bike is running..? Is that supposed to be like that ? Thank you
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