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Thread: Idle adjustment woes

  1. #1
    Baby Twin
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    Idle adjustment woes

    This is my first post so be gentle. I've recently purchased a 97 TLS that I know very little about. Things I do know:

    1. The bike goes like a scalded cat.
    2. Sometimes for no apparent reason the bike runs poorly from idle to 8000 rpm. This behavior directly corresponds to the idle adjustment or if I've used the fast idle lever (choking function).

    I've stopped using the fast idle when starting and just hold the throttle at 2000 rpm. The idle I typically don't touch since it holds at 900rpm consistently. Yesterday I went for a spin and it ran like hell until I messed with the idle screw.

    Any thoughts on where I should start?

    Thanks
    Last edited by montanatls; 08-12-2009 at 12:58 PM.

  2. #2
    Upside Down Super Mod
    Steve TLS's Avatar
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    Start with setting the idle speed correctly - it's supposed to be around 1200 RPM, 900 RPM is too low and might be loading the plugs up.

    The fast idle shouldn't affect anything as it's exactly the same as holding the throttle open a touch - no choke, nothng else other than a fast idle.

    The workshop manual and a tuning video is available from the file vault, the link is up the top of the page.

    Synchronise the TB's, Adjust the TPS, set the idle speed.
    My $0.02c, always just my $0.02c Steve

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  3. #3
    Baby Twin
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    Thanks Steve TLS,

    That is the direction I will travel.

  4. #4
    Evil Twin king4477's Avatar
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    +1 TB sync and TPS adjustment.

    They are pretty simple to do, hardest thing about doing it is finding the right torx bit for the TPS (security 25 for the TLR). After getting everything sync'ed up you'll notice a dramatic change in the nature of your motor (smoother running, better response). If everything is already set properly, then you might consider cleaning your FI system.

  5. #5
    Baby Twin weelee's Avatar
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    def star with tb sync and tps adjustment also check air screws on each TB they should be 2 1/2 turns out from gently seated all the way in
    "I too intend to leave this world the same way I came into it, Screaming and Bloody!!!
    WEE-LEE Jeff, 97 TLS, Zero Gravity Double Bubble Screen, Pazzo Racing Levers, CF Bar Ends, K&N Filter, Yoshi RS-3 oval cans, PC USB-III, Wavey Rotors F+R, SS Braided Lines F+R, TLR Pistons, Fender Eliminator, Solo Seat Cowl, TL Tank Bra, Hella Bulbs

  6. #6
    Scooter hottie chauffeur Rifleman's Avatar
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    here is what the idle adjustment looks like. it's just a screw holding the butterflys open a crack.

    1200 is the proper idle, just turn the screw in until it idles there with the "choke"/fast idle off.

    choke/fast idle does the same thing on the other side of the TB's, there is a small cam that holds the butterflys open a little more... it really is a sticky SOB, both where the cam touches the butterfly actuator and the cable runs over the front cylinder and gets water in it, corrodes and sticks in the open position.

    get the TB sync and TPS set, set the idle... then let us know if additional problems exist, we'll tackle those at that point.



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  7. #7
    Baby Twin
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    This is the best site ever, thanks for all of the suggestions and photos, you guys kick ass!!!!

    Mitch out

  8. #8
    One Liter Duc Eater mystahagy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rifleman View Post

    get the TB sync and TPS set, set the idle... then let us know if additional problems exist, we'll tackle those at that point.
    Hopefully that'll get it, I just did mine again this past weekend. It's surprising how over time those things slowly creep out of spec but after a proper adjustment if feels like a new bike again. It even runs a degree or two cooler now.

    Just be sure on your TB sync to calibrate the gauges to match each other first. I connect each dial gauge to the front throttle body one at a time, adjust one to match the other, then do my sync on both.
    '01 RC51, '02 GSXR600 Track, '72 CB350 cafe, Formula Vee 1915cc autox'er

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