| Performance Enhancement Things that make you go VRRROOOOM! |
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TLZone Commercial Vendors.
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06-26-2009, 03:06 AM
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#21 (permalink)
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Baby Twin
Member #17188
Posts: 54
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tunbridge Wells, Kent, UK
Sportsbike: 2001 TL-1000R
Riding Experience: 6 years on 600+ cc bikes
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 2 Days and 2:16:57 Hours
TLR Junkie
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Probably not; Fluid physics isn't something I was particularly good at!!
All I know is it works 
__________________
Current stable:
TL-1000R
MG ZS 120+
Ridgeback Panorama
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06-26-2009, 03:27 AM
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#22 (permalink)
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Platinum Subscriber
Member #4643
Posts: 6,289
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Mid Sweden
Sportsbike: TL1000S -97
Riding Experience: 8 years
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 2 Weeks, 2 Days and 9:38:17 Hours
Octofinger
Should be scared of the Admins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLR Junkie
Probably not; Fluid physics isn't something I was particularly good at!!
All I know is it works 
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Me neither.
That's why there are a lot of "probably" and "I think" in my post. 
__________________
Done: -98 thermostat housing + bypass mod, Rifleman's 1/5'th, black screen, 17/40 sprockets, home made ATRE, Bitubo rear shock, Barnett clutch springs, split steering damper bracket, iridium plugs, D&D CF full system, +/- mod, Van fork sliders, Ziggy999 frame sliders, Pazzo shorty levers, US headlight, Busa front MC, Galfer SS lines, TLR 6-potters, airbox mod, PCII, Van sprocket cover, EBC front brake discs, TI rotor bolts, Van clear clutch cover, 6-spring clutch, Van clutch plate, Scotts oil filter, K&N.
Todo:CF undertail/gap mod, Discacciati discs, fork revalving, Stealth sprocket, full TLR M4 system, improve crank case breather, fix the broken faring and scratches ...
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06-28-2009, 03:56 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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GP Champ
Member #7563
Posts: 1,569
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Netherlands
Sportsbike: TLRS
Riding Experience: not enough
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 2 Weeks, 4 Days and 0:00:58 Hours
Loki-TLR
Loki-TLRS
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When I've got the stuff I'll do some testing. After a night with a tied down lever it seems there's less travel needed to get the brakes to apply. With the streched fingers it might just feel firmer, because it's harder to squeeze in?
What about the possible air pockets in the connection between the two calliper parts?
__________________
The coolest car alarm tester by far - TL1000S
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06-28-2009, 05:18 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Silver Subscriber
Member #1366
Posts: 4,622
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Switzerland
Sportsbike: TL1000S
Riding Experience: Since 1999
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 3 Weeks, 6 Days and 5:07:16 Hours
rufer
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Good writeup with excellent pictures!!
I have some remarks:
1) you can easily get the pistons out using compressed air. Just put a piece of wood/rag between them before blowing them out! Be careful!
2) Using special brake assembly paste certainly helps that the piston move freely right from the beginning.
3) You should NOT use copper grease when bolting together aluminium with a steel bolt!! It will cause corriosion in the long term ("battery effect"). If you want to use grease, use aluminium anti size like Loctite 8150. No grease will be better than copper grease for the caliper halves bolts!
4) The 6 pot calipers are difficult to bleed. I had good results when I tried to first get air out of a caliper prior to connecting it to the line. Or in other words fill the caliper with fluid until there is no air trapped in there anymore. You will be amazed how much air comes out of there when shaking/turning/knocking/heating the caliper again and again.
Greetings
Rufer
__________________
2x TL1000SW, candy jade lime yellow. TL1000cup.de champion 2007, 2008 & 2009
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02-07-2010, 02:06 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Baby Twin
Member #18070
Posts: 81
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bromsgrove, England
Sportsbike: TL1000R
Riding Experience: 23 years
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 3 Days and 10:37:30 Hours
chris_psmith
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Inspired by reading this, and the fact that my wheel felt siezed when i tried to move it, followed the plan, nice write up, but still managed to shag 3 pistons getting them out.
Have cleaned everything up, don't fancy risking the ones with surface marks on them after i had to resort to the big grips and not enough cloth in the jaws, so looking at options:
1. Lots of used ones on bay for about £100 supposed to be in good condition with later ally pistons.
2. Get replacemnt set of pistons for one (with seals) for £75 and seals for other at £35 and end up with one caliper running ally pistons, the other stainless.
3. Stop messing about and spend the £150 and do both with ally pistons.
Anyone any experience with the ally pistons, they sound like an improvement in stopping the sticking pistons (reckon i was running with a pair of 2 pots by the lack of movement when i did the strip!
Thought?
Chris
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02-07-2010, 02:11 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Silver Subscriber
Member #1366
Posts: 4,622
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Switzerland
Sportsbike: TL1000S
Riding Experience: Since 1999
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 3 Weeks, 6 Days and 5:07:16 Hours
rufer
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Get a set of as new calipers from Speedking in the market place.
Greetings
Rufer
__________________
2x TL1000SW, candy jade lime yellow. TL1000cup.de champion 2007, 2008 & 2009
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02-07-2010, 03:03 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Never ride faster than your angel can fly.
Member #17601
Posts: 2,948
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Wolverhampton
Sportsbike: 97' TL1000s (v)
Riding Experience: Getting better every day.
Pictures: 6
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Month, 3 Weeks, 5 Days and 1:02:42 Hours
Chris
If it ain't broken don't
fix it, it cost too much.
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Why not rub down your pistons with emery cloth and see how they come up? if not good enough, rub down with 800,1000 and 1500grit wet and dry. then re polish. New seal kit for £50+/- for everything except half seals (£2each).
I recently did a set, and gave him a bonus by spraying them with ceramic paint to tidy them a little.

__________________
Bigrigdriver - got a new name
97 TLS - Rizla Colours - Blue powder coated wheels, - Reflective yellow rim tape - Lowers fitted - LSL top yoke and risers - Renthal bars - Braided lines twin front and single rear - Sprint steering damper - Screen cut down - mirrors removed - 6 pot Gold calipers - Blackshadow UK 'Blade' front Rotors - Blade reverse rear rotor - EBC HH pads - 200 rear tyre - Dunlop Qually II front and rear - red undertail - Blue LED Dash Lights - LED number plate light and indicators - flasher relay changed - K&N Air filter - K&N Chrome Oil Filter - Scorpion Race Cans Cut to 10 inch - +Mod - OEM Thermostat Mod - Riflemans 1/5th
Still to come 
FP Racing Levers Gold with Blue adjusters - 6 Bolt clutch conversion - Barnett springs- Clear Clutch Cover - Gold Retainers - D&D Headers Ceramic coated - Headlight Loom Mod - Remote/Keyless Start - Vans Gold front and rear Reservoirs - D3 grips - Rear Brake return spring blue or gold ?? -
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02-07-2010, 10:59 PM
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#28 (permalink)
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Baby Twin
Member #18070
Posts: 81
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bromsgrove, England
Sportsbike: TL1000R
Riding Experience: 23 years
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 3 Days and 10:37:30 Hours
chris_psmith
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Thanks Rufer, good tip, think i got the last set he had in.
Chris, tried rubbing down but just not happy that they won't fail again as at least one has quite a deep mark, and for £50 more than the seals I get a set with the ally pistons in blingy gold, saving me a paint job.
If anyone else shags a piston in, give me a shout as after the new one arrives I will have some spares you can have....
Chris
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