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Old 06-26-2009, 03:06 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Probably not; Fluid physics isn't something I was particularly good at!!

All I know is it works
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:27 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TLR Junkie View Post
Probably not; Fluid physics isn't something I was particularly good at!!

All I know is it works
Me neither.
That's why there are a lot of "probably" and "I think" in my post.
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Old 06-28-2009, 03:56 PM   #23 (permalink)
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When I've got the stuff I'll do some testing. After a night with a tied down lever it seems there's less travel needed to get the brakes to apply. With the streched fingers it might just feel firmer, because it's harder to squeeze in?

What about the possible air pockets in the connection between the two calliper parts?
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Old 06-28-2009, 05:18 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Good writeup with excellent pictures!!
I have some remarks:
1) you can easily get the pistons out using compressed air. Just put a piece of wood/rag between them before blowing them out! Be careful!
2) Using special brake assembly paste certainly helps that the piston move freely right from the beginning.
3) You should NOT use copper grease when bolting together aluminium with a steel bolt!! It will cause corriosion in the long term ("battery effect"). If you want to use grease, use aluminium anti size like Loctite 8150. No grease will be better than copper grease for the caliper halves bolts!
4) The 6 pot calipers are difficult to bleed. I had good results when I tried to first get air out of a caliper prior to connecting it to the line. Or in other words fill the caliper with fluid until there is no air trapped in there anymore. You will be amazed how much air comes out of there when shaking/turning/knocking/heating the caliper again and again.

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Old 02-07-2010, 02:06 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Inspired by reading this, and the fact that my wheel felt siezed when i tried to move it, followed the plan, nice write up, but still managed to shag 3 pistons getting them out.
Have cleaned everything up, don't fancy risking the ones with surface marks on them after i had to resort to the big grips and not enough cloth in the jaws, so looking at options:
1. Lots of used ones on bay for about £100 supposed to be in good condition with later ally pistons.
2. Get replacemnt set of pistons for one (with seals) for £75 and seals for other at £35 and end up with one caliper running ally pistons, the other stainless.
3. Stop messing about and spend the £150 and do both with ally pistons.

Anyone any experience with the ally pistons, they sound like an improvement in stopping the sticking pistons (reckon i was running with a pair of 2 pots by the lack of movement when i did the strip!

Thought?

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Old 02-07-2010, 02:11 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Get a set of as new calipers from Speedking in the market place.

Greetings
Rufer
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:03 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Why not rub down your pistons with emery cloth and see how they come up? if not good enough, rub down with 800,1000 and 1500grit wet and dry. then re polish. New seal kit for £50+/- for everything except half seals (£2each).

I recently did a set, and gave him a bonus by spraying them with ceramic paint to tidy them a little.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:59 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Thanks Rufer, good tip, think i got the last set he had in.

Chris, tried rubbing down but just not happy that they won't fail again as at least one has quite a deep mark, and for £50 more than the seals I get a set with the ally pistons in blingy gold, saving me a paint job.

If anyone else shags a piston in, give me a shout as after the new one arrives I will have some spares you can have....

Chris
 
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callipers, overhaul, six-pot, tokico



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