| Motor Tear Down and Rebuild A complete resource for engine modifications and repair. |
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TLZone Commercial Vendors.
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11-03-2008, 11:12 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Superbike Twin
Member #10293
Posts: 136
Join Date: May 2007
Location: gold coast, australia
Sportsbike: 97 tl1000s
Riding Experience: 4 years
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Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 0 Days and 1:48:02 Hours
crazymofo
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checking parts
gday folks.
about to embark on my 1st TL motor build, along with its gearbox,
im just wondering what methods you guys measure things, (in your garage... or kitchen table  ) ie. how do you check for cylinder bore being out of round or high spots in them? run out on shafts etc...
i dont have a run out guage and all the specialty tools engine builders have, so is there other ways to go about it all?
is there any special areas i should pay particular attention too?
thanks in advance
cheers.joe.
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11-04-2008, 06:17 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Silver Subscriber
Member #2058
Posts: 3,820
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Eureka ca A.K.A=The Friggn BOONIES
Sportsbike: TLS-THE DEADSEXY ONE!!
Riding Experience: 22 yrs riding street
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Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 5 Days and 3:59:26 Hours
zippytlsr
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Sam might be able to help you. When i rebuilt mine.. i ended up sending the Trans parts off for undercutting....left runout checs to them... same for the Crank.... rods... pistons... had those balanced together.... and they checked them as well as chamfering the oil holes in the crank. Then just used basic micrometer to check stuff. Stevetls might chime in like 10 nanoseconds.  He's done some work on his bikes as well. 
__________________
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11-04-2008, 06:54 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator
Member #2130
Posts: 9,844
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: York, Ooop North in England
Sportsbike: 3 TLS's, 06 ER6-F
Riding Experience: 33 Years & Still Counting
Pictures: 1
Life Wasted on TLZone: 2 Months, 4 Weeks, 1 Day and 11:52:34 Hours
Sam
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Cleanliness is the key, make sure the engine is spotless on the outside before pulling it appart. If it's your first engine rebuild spend some bedtime reading of the manual and label all the parts as you remove them. Clean everything in petrol. A dusty shed or kitchen table is not ideal as a baked bean dropped in an oil gallery is not very good
You haven't said what the reason for the rebuild is, if it's the gearbox that went you can be fairly sure visually checking everything else is enough. You only need to start checking for high spots/run out etc if the parts are from an unknown source of if your building a true race engine although it is good practice.
As a matter of course replace the oil pump, big end shells, gearbox bearings and water pump mechanical and oil seal.
As far as the gearbox goes, I've bought dozens from people who say they are mint only find thay are knackered.
Check the dogs on the gears, they should be nice and square with sharp corners, any chips or rounded edges should go in the bin, likewise on the holes in the matching gears.
Check the selector forks for wearing/blueing of the machined pads on the fingers, same again, any wear marks means bin them.
If you rebuild the gearbox pay attention to the manual, use new circlips and ensure the oil holes in the bushes are aligned etc
Remember the R/H crankshaft nut is a Left Hand Thread
Assemble with plenty of oil or ideally proper engine assembly grease and SuzukiBond/YamahaBond/ThreeBond for the main crankcase half gasket sealant
Treble check the cam timing and again check the manual for locations and directions of the cam lobes etc as that is a common mistake
All the following parts are knackered except the left side selector fork for comparison .....

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11-04-2008, 09:40 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Silver Subscriber
Member #1366
Posts: 4,625
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Switzerland
Sportsbike: TL1000S
Riding Experience: Since 1999
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 3 Weeks, 6 Days and 5:37:36 Hours
rufer
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Gearbox output shaft bearing is an important thing to check. Turn it by hand, if it feels like there is sand in the bearing replace it.
Also check the valve tappets for hair cracks.
When I had my engine rebuilt, one idler gear bearing in the cam train was worn --> replaced idler gear and bolt.
Greetings
Rufer
__________________
2x TL1000SW, candy jade lime yellow. TL1000cup.de champion 2007, 2008 & 2009
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11-04-2008, 10:45 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Superbike Twin
Member #10293
Posts: 136
Join Date: May 2007
Location: gold coast, australia
Sportsbike: 97 tl1000s
Riding Experience: 4 years
Pictures: 0
Life Wasted on TLZone: 1 Week, 0 Days and 1:48:02 Hours
crazymofo
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brilliant, thanks for the great information fellas,
shall update my progress. i should be fine, ive built all my own drag car engines, only place im not confident is the gearbox side of things
edit: reason for the rebuild is cos its slipping in and out of gear under load in 4th. its 56,000km old i'll have it apart, so may as well build it back to new
cheers.joe.
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11-04-2008, 12:43 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Silver Subscriber
Member #12363
Posts: 6,140
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Brisbane Qld
Sportsbike: TL1000s naked
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Life Wasted on TLZone: 3 Months, 2 Weeks, 1 Day and 13:27:30 Hours
The Ring-In
No longer a rain god
butI'm still a C***and a
tool
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no worries joe .
I'm in brissie and I have all the good stuff.
I'll help out if you need it.
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Cheers Stu
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