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Old 01-15-2009, 01:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DRZSM... or something else?

Sorry for the long post.

I have a 97 TLS and it's staying (unless perhaps a Super Duke at a ridiculously low price presents itself) so this satisfies the street use... for the most part.

I also have an 05 DRZSM and love it, especially for city riding but this past September I moved out of the city (15 minute drive back in, so not far out) so that aspect is not so important. It's highway to go pretty much anywhere for me (street wise).

I want to start off road riding but have concerns about rashing up the DRZ which will then restrict how hard I ride it off road. I've found myself riding other's dirt bikes and thinking that I was riding harder than I'd ride the DRZ (not that I have any real experience riding off road).

A friend recently made me realize that I am thinking of the DRZ as a street bike that I want to take off road. What I think I need is a dirt bike that I will likely motard for possible track use so if the thing goes down... so be it! (in Ontario you can no longer register an off road bike for street use but if it was registered prior to the new law, you're golden),

I've found an '00 YZ426 with both SM and MX setup and it is registered for street use. It's a friend's whose done with the road and has just picked up an 07 CRF450 with both MX and SM setup. I can get it for $3300 CDN and, looking at the markets, would be looking at getting north of $4500 for the DRZ which leaves me some cash for gear and fork springs/gold valves for the TL.

Details;

2000 yz426 street legal supermoto/dirt bike, blue plated in Ontario

supermoto setup includes
17"excel rims on stock hubs with metzler slicks 3.5 front 4.25 rear, 320mm motomaster rotor, 13mm maguara master, brembo 4 piston caliper, stainless line, shorty front fender, bark busters, auto decomp cam, bolts drilled for safety wire,

Dirt setup includes
stock yz dirt wheels, stock front brake setup, rad guards, case saver, kickstand, wr fuel petcock (has reserve) gripper seat, frame guards, wr radiator overflow,

Street legal kit includes
55 watt electrosport stator, rear fender with signals and brake light, wr headlight, headlight with front signals, bicycle speedometer horn and mirrors, multi-function switch with signals, and a neutral light

Extras include
3 extra sets of plastics, bottom end, lots of gearing, wr muffler (really quiet), powder coated black frame, subframe, and swingarm, complete set of spare electronics, including stator, cdi, coil, edlebrock carb, rear shock (needs rebuild), stock seat, footpegs, rads, air box, air filters, chains, bars, rear brake setup, axles, spacers

Thoughts?

Pics;



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Old 01-15-2009, 01:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It will be quite a bit more powerful and much better throttle response than a stock DRZ-S/SM and about 45lbs lighter I'd guess. It is not street legal from the factory and whether you can get tags for it will depend on your state and local dmv rules. It won't be as civilized as the DRZ. The motor will vibrate more, the gearbox is a close-ratio one so you'll have to gear it to the moon to run freeway speeds without reving its gutts out. You will need to change oil and adjust valves more frequently than on the DRZ etc.

For a dirt/sm track bike it would be way better than the drz, for a daily rider or arond town transportation it may be a bit more hassle than its worth (kick start, no key etc).

Another option would be to just get a cheap dirt bike, something like a KDX200 runs around 1500 used in the states.

As for its dirt performance, power is a bit off compared to current 450's but still more than almost anyone could use in most conditions. Its a bit heavy, especially for a noob off road. Also way more motor than is ideal for a new off road rider. A KDX200 or 250cc four stroke (CRF250, WR250 etc). If your riding is mostly high speed two track or sand dunes the size won't be a huge detriment, if its to be tighter stuff or MX it is really not a great choice of a first bike.
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1997 TL1000S/V
- TLR Akro Evo Ti Exhaust - PCII - 5.5" rear rim & 180/55 - Avon AV45/46ST tires - No Steering damper- Uni Filter -Relocated Temp sensor & 98+ t-stat housing/wp cover - TLRCrazy1 Fan Switch Mod - Dual Star heated Grips - HeliBars - 60k miles.

9k mile summer ride report [summer '08]

Ride report: Oshkosh, Rockies, UT, NV, CA, Bajal [summer '09]
 
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot View Post
It is not street legal from the factory and whether you can get tags for it will depend on your state and local dmv rules.

For a dirt/sm track bike it would be way better than the drz, for a daily rider or arond town transportation it may be a bit more hassle than its worth (kick start, no key etc).

Its a bit heavy, especially for a noob off road. Also way more motor than is ideal for a new off road rider. A KDX200 or 250cc four stroke (CRF250, WR250 etc). If your riding is mostly high speed two track or sand dunes the size won't be a huge detriment, if its to be tighter stuff or MX it is really not a great choice of a first bike.
Some good input, thanks! This one is already registered street legal, no issues there and I do worry that this is too much bike for starting off with off roading.

My original idea was to get something like a CRF250 then tard it for track days but then I'd lose the option of EVER riding it on the street due to our new laws here, hence my dilemma. My thought is that I can take advantage of this deal and if I find that I don't actually ride the street much, could then sell it for the CRF.
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:34 PM   #4 (permalink)
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That would work or just have different bikes for 'tarding and off roading. If you get serious into either you won't want to do them on the same machine. Swapping over wheels and brakes will get old pretty quick, then there's suspension setup, gearing etc.
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1997 TL1000S/V
- TLR Akro Evo Ti Exhaust - PCII - 5.5" rear rim & 180/55 - Avon AV45/46ST tires - No Steering damper- Uni Filter -Relocated Temp sensor & 98+ t-stat housing/wp cover - TLRCrazy1 Fan Switch Mod - Dual Star heated Grips - HeliBars - 60k miles.

9k mile summer ride report [summer '08]

Ride report: Oshkosh, Rockies, UT, NV, CA, Bajal [summer '09]
 
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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up until about 06 the 4 stroke yami's were very difficult to start, especially once warm. most were though, not just the blue bikes. some improvemens with 03 and up.
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1997 TLS - the subtle green one. Yosh full system, custom high mount. PcII, Sharkskinz TLR one piece race tail with anti draft undertail, Zero gravity double, Pro-tek rearsets, Hyperpro 916 style damper, corbin seat, Vortex triple clamp, airtech hugger, Penske/Lindeman rear shock and linkage, Lindeman superbike fork valve job, Marchesini 10 spoke Black, Gsxr 750 6 piston calipers and larger m/c, SS brake lines front and rear, Braking Wave Rotors front, milled gsxr rotor rear, billet preload adjusters, airbox reworked, Graves clutch cover, gsxr 1000 rear caliper, Stealth tri metal rear sprocket, Rk 520 chain, sprocket specialists front, KN air filter, Black/gold Pazzo levers, Vortex black gas cap, Ti bolts, ceramic coated headers, 05 1k clip ons, 4 lb battery.

January 2009, the end of an error.
 
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You can put a hot-start button on the older ones to help with that I'm told. I'm not a four stroke guy and haven't a clue how to start them (without a little red button anyway). The very few times I've ridden a 426 I couldn't start it consistently, but its owner (who was not a large guy by any means) was able to start it on the first kick pretty much every time (he was a die-hard four stroke guy, been racing MX on four strokes since the early 1990's ). I tend to think that technique and setup go a very long way. I can verify that a person without a clue (me) will have a hard time getting one fired up
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1997 TL1000S/V
- TLR Akro Evo Ti Exhaust - PCII - 5.5" rear rim & 180/55 - Avon AV45/46ST tires - No Steering damper- Uni Filter -Relocated Temp sensor & 98+ t-stat housing/wp cover - TLRCrazy1 Fan Switch Mod - Dual Star heated Grips - HeliBars - 60k miles.

9k mile summer ride report [summer '08]

Ride report: Oshkosh, Rockies, UT, NV, CA, Bajal [summer '09]
 
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You'd need the cam to go with it. Good bikes, but I've sat down under many a tree waiting for the two guys I rode enduro's with to get their bikes started again. Much improved of late, sunday mine took 4 kicks, friends 08 450 took one. Might even be good enough for me to take friends 07 out of his garage as he gets a new one every 2 years. I just wouldn't want to rely on one that old on the street...but certainly can be done.
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1997 TLS - the subtle green one. Yosh full system, custom high mount. PcII, Sharkskinz TLR one piece race tail with anti draft undertail, Zero gravity double, Pro-tek rearsets, Hyperpro 916 style damper, corbin seat, Vortex triple clamp, airtech hugger, Penske/Lindeman rear shock and linkage, Lindeman superbike fork valve job, Marchesini 10 spoke Black, Gsxr 750 6 piston calipers and larger m/c, SS brake lines front and rear, Braking Wave Rotors front, milled gsxr rotor rear, billet preload adjusters, airbox reworked, Graves clutch cover, gsxr 1000 rear caliper, Stealth tri metal rear sprocket, Rk 520 chain, sprocket specialists front, KN air filter, Black/gold Pazzo levers, Vortex black gas cap, Ti bolts, ceramic coated headers, 05 1k clip ons, 4 lb battery.

January 2009, the end of an error.
 
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Old 01-15-2009, 03:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yup, I'd just keep the DRZ and pick up a nice cheap dirt bike. I picked up my KTM for about $1700 a few years ago. Did some basic maintenance and it's been doing me well ever since. I still can't ride it to it's full potential and have no desire for a shiny new one at this point.

It's nice to just roll out what you want to ride without doing a lot of changes. That's one reason I want to add a track only bike soon. No track prep. That was very nice when I had the gixxer, just roll it onto the trailer and go to the track. Dirt riding? Roll the KTM onto the truck and go riding.

In your situation I wouldn't give up the DRZ at all. Plus, with dirt bikes, people dump them after two or three years of use (very little use usually in that time frame) with lots of mods for less than half MSRP on a new one. Get one a few years older and they are even cheaper. That's how I wound up with mine.

Plus, when you have both, you can take sweet pictures like this one.

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A Kourier has to establish space on the pavement. Predictable law-abiding behaviour lulls drivers. They mentally assign you to a little box in the lane, assume you will stay there, can't handle it when you leave that little box.

Y.T. is not fond of boxes. Y.T. establishes her space on the pavement by zagging mightily from lane to lane, establishing a precedent of scary randomness. Keeps people on their toes, makes them react to her, instead of the other way round.

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Old 01-15-2009, 07:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The hot start button is just an air blead thing for the carb, no need for a cam to go with it The older ones I know had manual decomp levers, I think the newer ones might be auto but I really haven't paid very close attention.
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1997 TL1000S/V
- TLR Akro Evo Ti Exhaust - PCII - 5.5" rear rim & 180/55 - Avon AV45/46ST tires - No Steering damper- Uni Filter -Relocated Temp sensor & 98+ t-stat housing/wp cover - TLRCrazy1 Fan Switch Mod - Dual Star heated Grips - HeliBars - 60k miles.

9k mile summer ride report [summer '08]

Ride report: Oshkosh, Rockies, UT, NV, CA, Bajal [summer '09]
 
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Old 01-16-2009, 07:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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coyo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gixxerjasen View Post
Yup, I'd just keep the DRZ and pick up a nice cheap dirt bike.

In your situation I wouldn't give up the DRZ at all.
I had a hard time talking the wife into 2 bikes... you think I'll be able to swing 3?!!!
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