TL poor starting and cutting out.

[Doppler]

I have carried out a top end overhaul on my TL1000s including the usual airbox mod. It is now difficult to start, runs roughly, wont tick over and after a short while stops and displays the F1 symbol on the dash. I have checked and rechecked the valve timing. The valve clearances are spot on and I have checked the compression which is good. I have checked all sensors with an AVOmeter as well as the electrical continuity of all the relevant wiring. I have had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned and checked and have replaced the fuel pump. I have adjusted the TPS to get the correct indication on the dash. I have cleaned the crankshaft position sensor. I am about to fit replacement HT coils and leads but am not expecting this to solve the problem.
I have checked the electrical continuity of the frame and this is ok.
Have checked the fault codes by using a jumper wire and it always displays coo.
Any further suggestions before I commit suicide!

[Steve TLS]

What's the problem? It sounds like a TL

You need to leave it in dealer mode until the code comes up. It doesn't store codes, and if a fault isn't present it will display C00

When FI is being flashed up in the dash, there is a fault present. So leave it in dealer mode to read off the code, or put it into dealer mode without turning the ignition off.

Triple check the valve timing.

[Doppler]

Originally Posted by Steve TLS

What's the problem? It sounds like a TL

You need to leave it in dealer mode until the code comes up. It doesn't store codes, and if a fault isn't present it will display C00

When FI is being flashed up in the dash, there is a fault present. So leave it in dealer mode to read off the code, or put it into dealer mode without turning the ignition off.

Triple check the valve timing.

Thanks Steve, what do mean by "dealer mode"? I get the F1 indicator up and it is on constantly, I then attch the jumper wire without turning the ignition off but I get coo. If I turn the ignition off everything resets and I can start the bike again; it runs for a short period and then stops and displays F1 again.I have checked and rechecked the valve timing and am 100% sure that it is spot on. I am now going to check the earth continuity just in case there is a problem there. I have checked the large cable that connects to the engine from the negative terminal of the battery and that is ok, however the only other connection at the negative terminal is a wire that goes to the PC111. The wire diagram shows another connection and perhaps this could be the problem; however something of a long shot!

[Sekon]

Originally Posted by Doppler

Thanks Steve, what do mean by "dealer mode"? I get the F1 indicator up and it is on constantly, I then attch the jumper wire without turning the ignition off but I get coo. If I turn the ignition off everything resets and I can start the bike again; it runs for a short period and then stops and displays F1 again.I have checked and rechecked the valve timing and am 100% sure that it is spot on. I am now going to check the earth continuity just in case there is a problem there. I have checked the large cable that connects to the engine from the negative terminal of the battery and that is ok, however the only other connection at the negative terminal is a wire that goes to the PC111. The wire diagram shows another connection and perhaps this could be the problem; however something of a long shot!

Put the jumper wire in before you start it, then start it and wait till the fault happens and get the code.
I had to ride mine with it in dealer mode as a fi fault i was getting didnt always happen and when the key was cycled it would clear and then the bike would restart.

[Steve TLS]

Dealer mode is putting the jumper in so the display shows the codes.

Is it flashing FI in the dash or is it just the red LED coming on? It's normal for the LED to be on when the engine isn't running as it's multifunctional - EFI fault, over temperature and no oil pressure. There is no oil pressure when the engine isn't running.

[Doppler]

Thanks Steve & Secon. I will try putting the bike into dealer mod before starting the bike and see if I can get a code to come up. Am just in the process of fitting replacement coils and cutting back the HT lead slightly. When I have done this I will give it a go.
Am also fiiting another new set of plugs as well. Will shall see! Thanks for the helpful comments.

[nobill1398]

I have a similiar situation & my solution was the throttle body boots needed replacement.

[Doppler]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have now fitted replacement HT coils and have cut back the HT leads slightly to ensure a good connection. I have now tried connecting the jumper lead before starting the bike and I have finally got a fault code c42. I am now in the process of checking all the connections associated with the ignition switch and wiring.
Thanks again for telling me to go into "dealer mode" BEFORE starting the bike.

[Steve TLS]

There is a resistor in the ignition lock switch assembly the ECU needs to 'see' It prevents hotwiring.

Had a C42 on a mates 97 TLS and it was a broken wire in the harness that moves when the bars go lock to lock. In the end I just soldered a resistor across the two wires at the ECU and bypassed the ignition lock altogehter.

If you check the wiring diagram the resistor is across the B/W (ground) and O/Y (out of the lock) or B/W (ground) and O/R (on the harness side).

[Doppler]

Thanks Steve, I have taken the ignition switch apart and cleaned all the connections, and this seems to be quite sound. I have attached an ohmeter to both the main 12v connections at the switch and the one that connects the ECU to ground via the 100ohm
resistor. Both seem to be ok even if I wiggle the key around. I am now going to hunt for any poor connections within the loom relating to power to the ECU. It is a bit odd that the bike starts and runs ok and then just stops, and by turning the ignition off and on again it then starts immediately.