metal bits in the oil

[133bhp]

I'll buy the gears off you! - nothing wroing with those. Ditto others except, as I've said, I'd replace forks.
Cam? possibly will score bucket, but I'd dress it as best you can to take off high spots and run, inspect aftare a 100 mile or so, see whats hapening? Buckets is cheaper than a cam, not much to lose IMO
casting, yes, machining marks.
cylinder - have to check my old potos to see if slightly shaped but either way, look fine.
In good nick frankly

[Sam]

Originally Posted by 133bhp

I'll buy the gears off you! - nothing wroing with those. Ditto others except, as I've said, I'd replace forks.
Cam? possibly will score bucket, but I'd dress it as best you can to take off high spots and run, inspect aftare a 100 mile or so, see whats hapening? Buckets is cheaper than a cam, not much to lose IMO
casting, yes, machining marks.
cylinder - have to check my old potos to see if slightly shaped but either way, look fine.
In good nick frankly

Nothing wrong with any of that gearbox, I'd have no issues using the selector forks.

As far as the cam lobe goes just use a piece of 1200 wet and dry wetted with oil wrapped around a flat bar/file and carefully take off the high spots without sanding off the undamaged surfaces

[The Ring-In]

The cam is a bit of a worry , all else is great

the pitting on the top of the lobe is an indicator of overrevving. the springs are not holding the assembly on the cam lobe and this is usually at peak rpm .

this is your track bike I believe so I'd pay attention to this detail while you have the chance.

talk to phill at surecam (02 6581 5042) (mention stu and the zone). either get him to dress the cams back to the original profile or take the plunge and get something done to get some more power happening.

I'd get the valve springs tested and take his recommendations on suitable replacements to suit the revs and application.

I'd also look at getting the valves and seats done and a bit of port work wouldn't go amiss ( geoff chesterton in brissie is a bike port specialist PM me for his contact).

[133bhp]

Ring-in - he damaged it in transit apparently

[The Ring-In]

Ok if that is the case then the repair is to get one of those fine oil stones about the size of a cigarette lighter and rub it carefully and flatly over the surface to remove the high spots. the holes won't matter. you don't want to change the shape of the lobe.

[133bhp]

holes = extra oil capacity mod

[TomM]

Lovely news then. bloody mechanic $1600!!! goes to show, with TLZ as a knowledge bank, your a mug not to do your own spannering.

Gentlemen i take my hat off to you all. thank you

[TomM]

another question guys. how do i take this bolt off? do i just use brute force or do i have to straighten out the indent first. The manual says unlock the clutch sleeve hub nut but the nut seems to be made of a mighty hard materiel and short of having a go at it with a hammer and screwdriver i cant see how to bend the indent back.

brute force or it there a subtle technique?

also will i need a new one when i put it all back together or can i use the old one and make a new indent?

[Sam]

Originally Posted by TomM

another question guys. how do i take this bolt off?

I use an 18v impact gun otherwise you need a clutch holding tool, don't be tempted to prise against the slots, you will damage it.

The bent in part on the nut is soft and will just bend back out when you undo it.

Do you need to remove the clutch basket as the cases split horizontally ?

[TomM]

Thanks Sam, I have all the cases appart it's more a case of quriosity and an excuse to use the chutch holder tool I bought.

I'll just unloosen it then and reuse the nut again re punching in a new indent.